Professional Manufacturer for SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus Importers
Description SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material. Where to use It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU. Key Features 1. High Modulus 2. UV resistance 3. Low vapor and gas transmission 4. Primerless adhesion...
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SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material.
Where to use
It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.
1. High Modulus
2. UV resistance
3. Low vapor and gas transmission
4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass
5. 100% compatible to SV-8890
Technical data sheet
|Test standard||Test project||Unit||value|
|GB13477||Specific gravity(After mixing)||1.33|
|GB13477||surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||80-188|
|7 days after curing——25℃，50%R.H.|
|GB/T 531||Durometer Hardness||Shore A||40|
|GB13477||The tensile modulus at 12.5% elongation||Mpa||0.18|
|The ultimate tensile strength||Mpa||0.92|
|GB13477||Elongation limit (fracture)||%||150|
Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black
1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)
2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
In this video, we begin tackling the monumental project of resealing the exterior of the RV. Although this project tested our patience and stamina, we know that doing this job the right way will be worth it in the long run. Knowing we’re doing all we can to prevent future water damage is a great feeling.
We start the job by removing all of the leaky, weathered butyl tape and removing the rusty, ancient awnings that really don’t add any value to the rig. Then we move onto removing the crumbling, stubborn silicone sealant that should never ever EVER be used on the exterior of an RV… EVER lol.
To remove every last morsel of the old, cracked silicone caulk we used a putty knife, adhesive remover, mineral spirits, and good ol’ elbow grease. After it was all removed, we filled in any gaps with fresh butyl tape (the waterproof putty tape that goes underneath the caulk/sealant). In the next video, we apply new sealant (non-silicone) to the entire exterior of the RV to ensure it is finally waterproof.
Why are we hating on silicone? Well, for starters silicone is extremely hard to remove. Secondly, silicone doesn’t stick to itself. This means that in a year or so when you need to repair a cracked or leaky spot of your silicone caulking – you have to remove literally EVERY speck of it to get it to adhere and create a water-tight seal. It’s absolute madness. You might be wondering if silicone is such a bad option, why is it used so frequently? Good question. We have NO IDEA!
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NAME: HaRVey Dent
STYLE: Class C motorhome
MODEL: Yellowstone Camino Classic
LENGTH: 28ft + Hitch and scooter
WEIGHT: 10,000 lb (approx.)
CHASSIS: Ford Econoline Club Wagon (e350)
ENGINE: Ford 460 7.5L V8 engine
MPG: 6.5 (on average)
Track 1: Blank [NCS Release] by Disfigure
Click here: https://amzn.to/1Pcgf3o .
I bought Rubberseal Roll On to coat the inside of a plywood vivarium (48″L x 28″width (depth) x 72″H). I needed water resistant top and sides so coated the top half with 1/32 of an inch (30 mil) and the lower half and bottom with a thicker coat of about 1/16 of an inch (60mil) to get a waterproof seal. I used a roller for the top sides and a brush to coat the corners. A brush will let you lay this on thick. I have some very thick areas on the bottom especially in corners where plywood meets the frame. Be aware this takes at least 72 hrs to dry and not be tacky to the touch and depending on thickness can take longer.Other products I used with Rubberseal Roll On:I was concerned that silicone will not adhere to the rubber but it worked beautifully. I used GE 100% Silicone I (black). I added cork sheets to the upper walls and coconut coir over the silicone in other areas.Great Stuff adhered with no problem also. And once carved and shaped you can use the black silicone to blend it in. I used globs on the walls and used them for plant anchor points.Liquid Nails will adhere to the rubber also, but takes a bit for it to get a good grip. you may need to tape things in place till the glue dries.Tips:you may scratch the rubber off the walls with decor (adding large branches and such) if you are not careful. Silicone can touch up these spots or if you have some RubberSeal left over you can re+touchup as needed.Wear gloves as this becomes extremely sticky and buy 3 or 4 cheap paint brushes or rollers for each day you are going to add a coat since the RubberSeal will dry to the brush/roller and make it unusable after a few hours.The one gallon can I bought was just enough for this size build.Read more ›.
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