Professional Manufacturer for SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus Importers

Professional Manufacturer for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus Importers
  • Professional Manufacturer for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus ImportersProfessional Manufacturer for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus Importers
  • Professional Manufacturer for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus ImportersProfessional Manufacturer for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus Importers
  • Professional Manufacturer for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus ImportersProfessional Manufacturer for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus Importers

Short Description:

Description SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material.   Where to use It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.   Key Features 1. High Modulus 2. UV resistance 3. Low vapor and gas transmission 4. Primerless adhesion...


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With our rich experience and considerate services, we have been recognized as a reliable supplier for many international buyers for Professional Manufacturer for SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to belarus Importers, sincerely look forward to serving you in the near future. You are sincerely welcome to visit our company to talk business face to face with each other and establish long-term co-operation with us!


Description

SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material.

 

Where to use

It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.

 

Key Features

1. High Modulus

2. UV resistance

3. Low vapor and gas transmission

4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass

5. 100% compatible to SV-8890

 

Technical data sheet

Test standard Test project Unit value
Before curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB13477 Specific gravity(After mixing)   1.33
GB13477 Operating time min 20-40
GB13477 surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) min 80-188
corrosivity     No
7 days after curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB/T 531 Durometer Hardness Shore A 40
GB13477 The tensile modulus at 12.5% elongation Mpa 0.18
  The ultimate tensile strength Mpa 0.92
GB13477 Elongation limit (fracture) % 150

 

Certification

GB-24266-2009;

 

Color

Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black

 

Package

1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)

2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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  • In this video, we begin tackling the monumental project of resealing the exterior of the RV. Although this project tested our patience and stamina, we know that doing this job the right way will be worth it in the long run. Knowing we’re doing all we can to prevent future water damage is a great feeling.

    We start the job by removing all of the leaky, weathered butyl tape and removing the rusty, ancient awnings that really don’t add any value to the rig. Then we move onto removing the crumbling, stubborn silicone sealant that should never ever EVER be used on the exterior of an RV… EVER lol.

    To remove every last morsel of the old, cracked silicone caulk we used a putty knife, adhesive remover, mineral spirits, and good ol’ elbow grease. After it was all removed, we filled in any gaps with fresh butyl tape (the waterproof putty tape that goes underneath the caulk/sealant). In the next video, we apply new sealant (non-silicone) to the entire exterior of the RV to ensure it is finally waterproof.

    Why are we hating on silicone? Well, for starters silicone is extremely hard to remove. Secondly, silicone doesn’t stick to itself. This means that in a year or so when you need to repair a cracked or leaky spot of your silicone caulking – you have to remove literally EVERY speck of it to get it to adhere and create a water-tight seal. It’s absolute madness. You might be wondering if silicone is such a bad option, why is it used so frequently? Good question. We have NO IDEA!

    If you’d like to support this channel for FREE by doing your normal, everyday shopping, just click on this Amazon link and shop away! :) https://www.amazon.com/?tag=duetju20-20

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    - Michael and Jenny Justus

    Have you ever wondered what it takes to live full-time in an RV? Follow our journey on social media as we search for what it really means to live…

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    CAMERA GEAR:

    Canon 70d (body only) → https://amzn.to/2ae3gkQ
    Canon 18-135 STM lens → https://amzn.to/2eMf6Gs
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    RV INFO:

    NAME: HaRVey Dent
    STYLE: Class C motorhome
    YEAR: 1989
    MODEL: Yellowstone Camino Classic
    LENGTH: 28ft + Hitch and scooter
    WEIGHT: 10,000 lb (approx.)
    CHASSIS: Ford Econoline Club Wagon (e350)
    ENGINE: Ford 460 7.5L V8 engine
    ODOMETER: 47,000
    MPG: 6.5 (on average)

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    Foundation Waterproofing.
    Click here: https://amzn.to/1Pcgf3o .

    I bought Rubberseal Roll On to coat the inside of a plywood vivarium (48″L x 28″width (depth) x 72″H). I needed water resistant top and sides so coated the top half with 1/32 of an inch (30 mil) and the lower half and bottom with a thicker coat of about 1/16 of an inch (60mil) to get a waterproof seal. I used a roller for the top sides and a brush to coat the corners. A brush will let you lay this on thick. I have some very thick areas on the bottom especially in corners where plywood meets the frame. Be aware this takes at least 72 hrs to dry and not be tacky to the touch and depending on thickness can take longer.Other products I used with Rubberseal Roll On:I was concerned that silicone will not adhere to the rubber but it worked beautifully. I used GE 100% Silicone I (black). I added cork sheets to the upper walls and coconut coir over the silicone in other areas.Great Stuff adhered with no problem also. And once carved and shaped you can use the black silicone to blend it in. I used globs on the walls and used them for plant anchor points.Liquid Nails will adhere to the rubber also, but takes a bit for it to get a good grip. you may need to tape things in place till the glue dries.Tips:you may scratch the rubber off the walls with decor (adding large branches and such) if you are not careful. Silicone can touch up these spots or if you have some RubberSeal left over you can re+touchup as needed.Wear gloves as this becomes extremely sticky and buy 3 or 4 cheap paint brushes or rollers for each day you are going to add a coat since the RubberSeal will dry to the brush/roller and make it unusable after a few hours.The one gallon can I bought was just enough for this size build.Read more ›.

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