Factory provide nice price SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for The Swiss Factories

Factory provide nice price SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for The Swiss Factories
  • Factory provide nice price SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for The Swiss FactoriesFactory provide nice price SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for The Swiss Factories
  • Factory provide nice price SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for The Swiss FactoriesFactory provide nice price SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for The Swiss Factories

Short Description:

Description It is one-component acetoxy silicone sealant with fungicide to form a durable and flexible rubber seal resistant to water, mildew and mold.   Where to use SV-618  is an excellent candidate to consider the reliable prevention of mildew formation around fixtures in high humidity and temperature areas such as bath and kitchen rooms, swimming pool, facilities and lavatories. It also has good adhesion to most common building materials e.g. glass, tiles, ceramics and fiber glass, painte...


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We have a professional, efficiency team to provide quality service for our customer. We always follow the tenet of customer-oriented, details-focused for Factory provide nice price SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for The Swiss Factories, We will supply best quality, the most market competitive price, for every new and old customers with the most perfect green services.


Description

It is one-component acetoxy silicone sealant with fungicide to form a durable and flexible rubber seal resistant to water, mildew and mold.

 

Where to use

SV-618  is an excellent candidate to consider the reliable prevention of mildew formation around fixtures in high humidity and temperature areas such as bath and kitchen rooms, swimming pool, facilities and lavatories. It also has good adhesion to most common building materials e.g. glass, tiles, ceramics and fiber glass, painted wood.

 

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. Easy to apply

3. Highly efficient and safe bactericide

4. Low VOC

5. Proven Performer

 

Technical data sheet

Technical data sheet for reference,

  Test standard 1000
Appearance ISO 11600 Have no grain, no agglomerations
Extrudability,g/ml ISO 8394 450
Tack Free Time,min ASTM C 679 20
Density,g/cm3 ISO 1183 1.0
Slump,mm ISO 7390 0
Heat weight loss,% ISO 10563 7
Ultimate Tensile Strength,MPa ISO 8339 0.4
Ultimate Elongation,% ISO 8339 150
Ultimate Shear Strength, MPa ISO 4587 N/A

 

Certification

JC/T885-2001 20LM; and GB/T1741-2007 Mildew Proofing Grade 0

 

Color

clear, black, silver gray, white

 

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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    Things you will need:
    - Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
    - Above Ground Pool Pump
    - Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
    - Hole Saw with Arbor
    - Plunger Valves
    - Pool Outlet
    - 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
    - 1 Strainer Nut

    Other things you will need for maintenance:
    - Chlorine Tablets
    - Floating Pool Dispenser
    - Water Testing Kit

    Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
    Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
    Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
    Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
    Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
    Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
    Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.

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