Wholesale price for SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Guatemala Factory

Wholesale price for SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Guatemala Factory
  • Wholesale price for SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Guatemala FactoryWholesale price for SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Guatemala Factory

Short Description:

Description SV – 9300 Fire resistant silicone sealant is a one-component, neutral-curing silicone sealant exhibiting superior performance in applications where sealing openings in walls and floors are needed to control the spread of fire, smoke, toxic gasses, and water during fire conditions.   Where to use It is an ideal material designed for use in fire-stop systems for through penetrations and joints. This product excels in applications where greater water resistance is required e.g. ...


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We pursue the management tenet of "Quality is superior, Service is supreme, Reputation is first", and will sincerely create and share success with all clients for Wholesale price for SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Guatemala Factory, With the aim of "compete with good quality and develop with creativity" and the service principle of "take customers' demand as orientation", we will earnestly provide qualified products and good service for domestic and international customers.


Description

SV – 9300 Fire resistant silicone sealant is a one-component, neutral-curing silicone sealant exhibiting superior performance in applications where sealing openings in walls and floors are needed to control the spread of fire, smoke, toxic gasses, and water during fire conditions.

 

Where to use

It is an ideal material designed for use in fire-stop systems for through penetrations and joints. This product excels in applications where greater water resistance is required e.g. curtain wall, building facade, expansion/pipe and cable joints.

 

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. Excellent weatherproofing and waterproofing

3. Low gas transmission rate

4. With highly efficient redundant

 

Basic Application

1.Building fire seam sealed

2.Building façade

3.cable joints

 

Technical data sheet

Test standard Test project Unit value
Before curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB13477 Flow, sagging or vertical flow mm 0
GB13477 Operating time min 15
GB13477 surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) min 40-60
Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB/T 531.1-2008 Durometer Hardness Shore A 20-60
GB13477 60% elongation of cementation   no damaging
GB13477 Elongation limit % 120
GB/T 24267 Sealant level   20HM
GB/T 24267 Fire prevention level   FV-0

 

Certification

GB/T 24267-2009

 

Color

Black

 

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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  • You should check the valves at 500 – 600 miles, then every 6,000 miles after that.

    Tools you’ll need:
    10 mm socket
    12 mm socket
    Medium ratchet with short AND long extension
    Big flat screwdriver or quarter
    19 mm socket
    Large ratchet
    Flat feeler gauge
    Torque wrench (one that works for low torques)
    16 mm wrench (optional)

    Need a Clymer manual? Check out https://www.clymer.com/ or https://www.youtube.com/user/ClymerManuals

    Body work removal and installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kki7S2RZBGQ

    Remove the fan. The fan plug is mounted in a bracket on the frame – trace the wires, it’s easier than explaining. There are three 10 mm bolts. Two on the left and one near the center of the bike (right side of the fan) buried behind the radiator hose. The hose is pliable, push it out of your way. Use an extension. Unplugging the fan switch wire may also prove useful.

    Marknet Valve Check / Adjustment Procedures: https://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html
    I guess I lied. There is a link for the Clymers, but you still have to buy it: https://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=914&title=Kawasaki+KLR650%2c+1987-2006

    Unplug the spark plug wire (leave the spark plug alone! What did it ever do to you?) and the temperature sending wire (right next to the spark plug). Remove the ignition coil. It has two wires going into the back, unplug them, then remove the 10 mm bolts holing it in place.

    Remove the upper engine mount (I said I wasn’t going to to. *SPOILER ALERT* I tried to get the cover off for maybe 5 minutes to no avail. Then I gave in and took of the mount, the cover came out in about 10 seconds. Just do it). They are all 12 mm heads. Use the 16 mm wrench (not socket, like I said in the video… whoops.) to hold the plate “nut” from getting friendly with the engine.

    Snip the wire ties. Get rid of the gas tank rubber doodads. Clean as much of the bike above the valve area as you can.

    Take off the wire harness harness (two 10 mm bolts).

    Remove the valve cover bolts, all four are 12 mm. The two on the right are straight forward. The back left takes some wire wiggling, and the front left takes a lot of wire wiggling. Store the bolts in a safe place in such a way that you know where they go when you need to put them back in. Mind their gaskets.

    Valve stat sheet: https://www.klr650.marknet.us/valvclear.zip

    Remove the valve cover from the left side of the bike. Be careful: the surfaces are precision machined, screw up and the chance of leaks goes up. BE GENTLE! Gentle like it’s your girlfriend / wife / whathaveyou.

    Remove the two round plug on the left side of the engine. Use a big flat head screwdriver or a quarter. Use the 19 mm socket and large ratchet driver on the big hole and turn counterclockwise (the direction the wheels normally turn). There are three marks; you’re aiming for the third. It’s a straight tick mark with a T on right behind it. Watch the cam lobes. You’re at the “right” TDC (top dead center) when the tick mark by the T lines up with the lack of threads where the small cap goes AND the cam lobes all point away from each other. If you overshoot, take a breath, and spin the crank around TWICE. Watch the lobes if you’re wondering “why twice?”

    Use a flat feeler gauge and check your valve shim clearances. Watch the video for the explanation.

    Valve Shim Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2d-V4udwaA

    Use RTV Silicone Sealant and make a thin coat on both sides of the gasket. Put the gasket in place. Put the valve cover back in place from the left side of the bike. Again, BE GENTLE. You’ve made it this far, don’t fubar your precision machined surfaces now.

    Replace the four cover bolts. Short on the left, long on the right. Tighten them evenly and carefully working your way up to 6 ft * lbs (that would be 71 INCH pounds).

    Put the ignition coil back on, plug in the two wires on the back of it, plug in the temperature sending wire and put the spark plug cap back on the spark plug.

    Put the fan back on (three bolts, 10 mm), plug it back in, put the plug back in its clip on the frame, plug the fan switch back in (bottom of the radiator).

    Replace the wire ties that you snipped.

    Replace the upper engine mount. All three bolts get torqued to 18 ft * lbs.

    Replace the Body Work (link is up top).

    Please rate and leave comments!

    For a wealth of KLR 650 information, please visit KLR650.NET – Your Kawasaki KLR650 Resource!
    If you decide to join, please use my referral link: https://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php?referrerid=17746



    This innovative hatch offers a no-mess, deck seal system that sheds water naturally. Designed with water-resistant in-laid gasket, rigid rib design for both vertical and horizontal use, hidden fastener, stainless steel hinges, and UV-resistant saralon resin that stands up to harsh marine elements. https://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Innovative-13-x-23-Hatch&i=74922&aID=601J6&merchID=4006

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