One of Hottest for SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria Manufacturer

One of Hottest for
 SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria Manufacturer
  • One of Hottest for
 SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria ManufacturerOne of Hottest for
 SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria Manufacturer
  • One of Hottest for
 SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria ManufacturerOne of Hottest for
 SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria Manufacturer
  • One of Hottest for
 SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria ManufacturerOne of Hottest for
 SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria Manufacturer

Short Description:

Description SV – 999 silicone structural sealant is a one-component, neutral curing, designed for glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall, glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural assembly silicone sealant. Show the effective physical properties and bonding performance   Key Features 1. 100% silicone 2. No sag 3. Strong bonding strength 4. Water & weatherproof 5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials 6. 25% movement capability   Basic Application...


Product Detail

Attentions

Application

Product Tags

We keep improving and perfecting our products and service. At the same time, we work actively to do research and development for One of Hottest for SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant to Nigeria Manufacturer, We sincerely welcome domestic and foreign merchants who calls, letters asking, or to plants to negotiate, we will offer you quality products and the most enthusiastic service,We look forward to your visit and your cooperation.


Description

SV – 999 silicone structural sealant is a one-component, neutral curing, designed for glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall, glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural assembly silicone sealant. Show the effective physical properties and bonding performance

 

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. No sag

3. Strong bonding strength

4. Water & weatherproof

5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

6. 25% movement capability

 

Basic Application

1.Glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall structure adhesive seal

2.Glass daylighting roof, metal structure engineering

3.Insulating glass bonding

 

Technical data sheet

Test standard Test project Unit value
Before curing——25℃,50%R.H.
  specific gravity g/ml 1.40
GB13477 Flow, sagging   or vertical flow mm 0
GB13477 Operating time min 15
GB13477 surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) min 40-60
Sealant curing speed and operating time   will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high   temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather   low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after   curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB13477 Durometer Hardness Shore A 40
  The ultimate   tensile strength Mpa 1.3
GB13477 Tensile strength(23℃) Mpa 0.8
GB13477 Tensile strength(90℃) Mpa 0.5
GB13477 Tensile strength(-30℃) Mpa 0.9
GB13477 Tensile strength(flooding) Mpa 0.6
GB13477 Tensile strength(flooding   – ultraviolet) Mpa 0.6

 

Certification

GB 16776;ASTM C1184

 

Color

Black

 

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 500ml in sausage *20 per box

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

 

  • Previous:
  • Next:



  • Is your toilet running? The most common cause of a leaky toilet is a toilet flapper valve that isn’t quite seating properly at the bottom of the tank. Replacing a toilet flapper valve is a relatively simple fix that could save you a pretty penny on your water bill.

    First, it’s worth noting that not all flapper designs are the same. Before buying a replacement flapper, be sure to take the old one to the store with you so you can be sure the new one is a fit.

    Once you have a compatible flapper ready to install, be sure to first shut off the water supply valve to the toilet tank. Remove the lid from the tank, and flush the toilet to remove as much water as possible.

    You’ll note that the chain attached to the flush lever is the mechanism that lifts the toilet flapper, releasing water into the bowl. Disconnect this chain from the toilet lever. Then, pull the flapper off of the mounting pegs on either side of the overflow tube.

    It’s important to be sure to wipe off the valve seat at the bottom of the tank to ensure a clean seal between the area and the new flapper valve, once installed. Next, go ahead and install the new flapper valve where the old one sat. Connect the chain back to both the flapper and the flush lever, then test the amount of slack you’ll need by pushing down on the flush lever a few times, watching to make sure the flapper comes up and down appropriately.

    Lastly, turn the water supply back on and let the toilet tank re-fill with water. The new flapper valve should form a tight seal, fixing the leaky toilet that once was.

    As always, if you’re having problems or need extra help, give Roto-Rooter a call or visit us a https://www.rotorooter.com



    Other related videos:
    How to strip and repair tap gland-seal

    How to stop a monobloc tap outlet leaking (emergency repair)

    Earlier today I noticed some water on the floor near the kitchen sink so opened the unit and saw a bit of a leak from the main stopcock that controls flow of water from rising main into the house. Water was dripping from the gland seal. Unfortunately since this is the main way of turning off the water supply* I couldn’t isolate the actual stopcock which ironically is the isolating valve for the cold water supply. So as this was an emergency repair I had to use PTFE tape which is a product that everyone should have in their toolkit.
    Anyway – to carry out emergency repair;
    Turn off the stopcock and remove handle by unscrewing the cross-head screw in the end of shaft.
    Loosen off the gland seal retainer collar. The leak will worsen so put some old rags around it to mop up spills.
    Try to extract the old gland packing which is either rubber, fibre or leather. If the tap is in awkward place or the old seal is rock hard and too tight to remove, you then have to wrap several turns of PTFE tape around the shaft as near to the gland seal as possible.
    Now using a flat screwdriver and carefully push the tape right down into the gland seal (or what’s left of it)
    Now install the gland seal retainer collar and tighten it up.
    Now turn on the stopcock or tap/faucet and check for leaks. Ideally the old seal/packing is removed first but in the real world that sometimes doesn’t happen. If there’s still no leaks after a few hours then chances are you’ve fixed the problem. This is a ‘temporary repair’ so ultimately you will have to fit a new stopcock/tap/valve at some point. A useful tip is to regularly cycle any water supply valves, taps etc fully open and closed to keep them from sticking open or shut. Do this twice a year. Taps tend to seize more when they are fully open so it’s good practice to open them fully then back them off half a turn so the internal valve seat isn’t hard against the end stops.
    *If the main water supply stop valve is leaking you’ll either need a pipe freezing kit or hope there is a main water supply cut-off along with the water meter or supply from the mains water. Worth making a note of where the stopcocks and other valves are located on your property.

    Related Products

    WhatsApp Online Chat !