One of Hottest for SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant for New Zealand Factories
Short Description:
Description SV – 999 silicone structural sealant is a one-component, neutral curing, designed for glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall, glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural assembly silicone sealant. Show the effective physical properties and bonding performance Key Features 1. 100% silicone 2. No sag 3. Strong bonding strength 4. Water & weatherproof 5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials 6. 25% movement capability Basic Application...
We depend on sturdy technical force and continually create sophisticated technologies to meet the demand of One of Hottest for SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant for New Zealand Factories, We encourage you to make contact as we are looking for partners in our venture. We are sure you will find doing business with us not only fruitful but also profitable. We are ready to serve you with what you require.
Description
SV – 999 silicone structural sealant is a one-component, neutral curing, designed for glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall, glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural assembly silicone sealant. Show the effective physical properties and bonding performance
Key Features
1. 100% silicone
2. No sag
3. Strong bonding strength
4. Water & weatherproof
5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials
6. 25% movement capability
Basic Application
1.Glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall structure adhesive seal
2.Glass daylighting roof, metal structure engineering
3.Insulating glass bonding
Technical data sheet
| Test standard | Test project | Unit | value |
| Before curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| specific gravity | g/ml | 1.40 | |
| GB13477 | Flow, sagging or vertical flow | mm | 0 |
| GB13477 | Operating time | min | 15 |
| GB13477 | surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.） | min | 40-60 |
| Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| GB13477 | Durometer Hardness | Shore A | 40 |
| The ultimate tensile strength | Mpa | 1.3 | |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（23℃） | Mpa | 0.8 |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（90℃） | Mpa | 0.5 |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（-30℃） | Mpa | 0.9 |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（flooding） | Mpa | 0.6 |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（flooding – ultraviolet） | Mpa | 0.6 |
Certification
GB 16776；ASTM C1184
Color
Black
Package
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 500ml in sausage *20 per box
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
If you cannot drain your aquarium to repair a leak from the inside, and you need to work from the outside, you have to beat hydraulic pressure.
The way you can do it, is by patching from bottom (where your leak is) to top.
1) Use a 2″ tape (scotch / masking / duct / whatever). See the patch in my other video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HRAjfYTesQ
2) patch this tape with a coat or 2 of a plastic bag.
3) put a stripe of silicone (any kind – since it’s external). Now your “bandaid” is ready.
4) put this patch on your Leakage in a way that the dripping is chased up. You cannot completely seal since hydraulic pressure is stronger than silicone. But the silicone is strong enough to push the water flow 1″-2″ up. Just make sure you chase the leak Upwards – not downwards, and not side ways.
5) every 20 minutes or so, you can take of your patch (the plastic bag helps here), and put a new patch, 2″ higher up (repeat steps 1-4) with a small overlap between the previous and the new silicone, so that you continue chasing upwards. If you miss (leak goes in another direction, repeat on this section, till you get it up).
6) as you go upwards, at some point the hydraulic pressure will be low enough that your leakage stops completely. even if you are not lucky, once you reach the top water level, the water pressure is 0, and your leakage will be over.
My leak was at the bottom front left side, and I had to work up slowly against 15″ of water (about 40cm on a 50cm deep aquarium).
When I started this, I did’t know how it was going to turn out. In hindsight I would of course drain 1/3 of the water or 1/5 of the water – anything that is doable without taking out the fish (my initial constraint) or impacting the bio-equilibrium. Doing this would reduce pressure and essentially make it easier (it would take less stages of 2″ patching).
As a conclusion, I can say that in any case drain your aquarium as much as you can – it will help.
Then, if your leak is situated above the water level – work from the inside, using aquarium safe silicone, and if your leak is below that, use the method in this video.
As this was my first external repair it doesn’t look nice, and possibly I could have tried with less silicone, or maybe I could have trimmed it afterwards. However right now I cannot afford the headace of causing a new leak just for the sake of aesthetics.
https://www.sincosilicone.com
info@sincosilicone.com
Silicone Rubber Prototype Parts
As a professional silicone rubber products manufacturer, we have below three
service types for product customization:
1.customer provide design drawing, and we manufacturer as per the drawing;
2.customer provide sample, we duplicate as per the sample;
3.customer provide design idea, sketch, function ect. we make free design
drawing for your approval.
