Low price for Siway PU FOAM for Holland Factories

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Description

This product is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength;

Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins;

Key Features

1. Noise silencing effect

2. Strong bonding strength

3. Water & weatherproof

4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

Basic Application

1.Doors and Windows and wall body between the gap filling sealing, fixed bond

2.Language lab, studio, etc when decorating, gap to fill

Technical data sheet

Certification

JC 936-2004

Color

White

Package

750ml in Bottle * 12 per box

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

First time we had to use fire to make a tire stretch out.
Stretching 195/45R15s on 9Jx15 BBS RMs.
Didn’t work at first, but we got there! (Still not as good as in other videos I have seen, but hey..whatever! It’s fun!)

As more and more people cry about handling and whatever when it comes to stretched tires:
These wheels will be going on a stanced out 1986 Scirocco 16V weekend cruiser.
It’s meant to look good in the first place, handling just comes second.
Stretching tires that much will make the handling in fast corners worse…normal driving you won’t notice any difference though.
On my MKIII GTI, I run 195/40s on 9″ wide rims for daily use and meetings, while I run 215/35s on 9″ wide rims for track use (see my onboard videos on the Nürbrugring).
215s will just stretch slightly on 9″, stiffening the sidewall up only a little, giving you a more direct steering, while still allowing fast cornering.
In combination with harder rubber bushings, more stiff suspension setup and unbiall top mounts, etc.etc. this results in an almost GoKart like, very direct handling…sure not the fastest setup, but fast and fun enough for me.

This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shares some tricks-of-the-trade for installing a new, long-lasting windowsill. (See below for tools and a shopping list.)

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Full episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lf8dQDqewc8&list=PLkJADc1qDrr8mfl5BwtXlwYV9zxvbi-Eq&index=4

Watch How to Fix Rotted Wood With Epoxy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3l5q0xaQEf8

Watch How to Build a Raised Vegetable Garden: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ljQGBZKSyw

Watch How to Build a Fold-Down Murphy Bar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ljQGBZKSyw

Tools for How to Replace a Window Sill:
- Oscillating tool
- Reciprocating saw
- Flat pry bar
- Hammer and 3/4-inch-wide chisel
- End nippers
- Circular saw
- Layout square
- Drill/driver
- Handsaw
- Hand plane
- Random-orbit sander
- Caulk gun
- Dead-blow mallet
- Pneumatic finishing nailer

Shopping list for How to Replace a Window Sill:
- Spanish cedar, used to make new sill
- 3-inch screws, for pulling out old sill
- 120-grit sandpaper
- Spray primer, for coating new sill
- Silicone caulk, used to seal new sill into place
- 2-inch finish nails for pneumatic nailer
- Minimal-expansion foam, for filling void below sill
- Exterior-grade paint, to match existing window trim

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