Low MOQ for SMP-333 Industrial silane modified polyether sealant to moldova Manufacturer
Description SMP333 Industrial Silane Modified Polyether Sealant is a transparent single component, high performance, neutral curing adhesive. The product is green and does not contain toxic and harmful substances. It has good bonding ability for most substrates such as metal, ceramics, wood, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polycarbonate (PC). After curing, the surface can be coated and can be widely Used in a variety of train / bus / car and other motor vehicles, elevator cars, containers, machi...
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SMP333 Industrial Silane Modified Polyether Sealant is a transparent single component, high performance, neutral curing adhesive. The product is green and does not contain toxic and harmful substances. It has good bonding ability for most substrates such as metal, ceramics, wood, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polycarbonate (PC). After curing, the surface can be coated and can be widely Used in a variety of train / bus / car and other motor vehicles, elevator cars, containers, machinery and equipment, electrical equipment and other areas of the adhesive seal.
1.Environmental protection products: fast curing, low VOC, non-toxic and tasteless, non-polluting substrate, no corrosion.
2.The surface can be painted: the surface can be sprayed after the surface coating paint color.
3.Good operability: one-component, easy to operate, in the 4 ℃ ~ 40 ℃ temperature range has a good extrudability, with a plastic gun extrusion can be directly.
4.Excellent adhesion: with metal, ceramics, wood and PVC, PC, PA and other materials with excellent adhesion, without the use of primer.
5.Excellent weather resistance, aging resistance, dielectric and mechanical properties.
Where to use
Train / bus / car and other motor vehicle body, interior, floor, air conditioning and other systems of bonding and sealing.
Mobile phones, tablet PCs, navigators, digital cameras and other electrical equipment bonding seal.
Containers, elevator cars, ventilation equipment, such as seams sealed.
Electronics, machinery, ships and other areas of the adhesive seal.
Other suitable for this product in the field of bonding and sealing purposes.
Technical data sheet
|Test standard||Test project||Unit||value|
|coloer||Black, white, gray|
|GB13477||surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||15-60|
|GB528||Elongation at break||%||600|
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 500ml in sausage *20 per box
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Here is the next installment on our 1946 GarWood Ensign restoration project. With everything removed from the hull, we have flipped her onto boat dollies in preparation for removing the planking, repairing all the failed, rotted and broken framework beneath them and then installing a 5200 bottom.
This boat spent most of her life on Squam Lake or Little Squam Lake in New Hamspire.
That these lakes have a well-earned reputation for unforgiving, rocky bottoms is evidenced by all the damage that this hull has suffered below the waterline. Indeed, the previous owner(s) installed iron strapping along the stem and forward sections of the keel. Then there is the through-and-through fracture of the keel just forward of the prop shaft tunnel.
Removing the fasteners and these straps was simple.
But then comes the fiberglass. Yes, someone fiberglassed the entire bottom, the chines and up the topsides as much as 8 inches. We “get” to remove all of it. Not doing so makes removing bungs and bottom plank fasteners all but impossible, never mind the fact that we are doing our utmost to preserve the original planks.
We have tried using chisels, which worked well along the keel and garboards, where sheets of fiberglass peeled off with relative ease.
However, the fabric-infused resin remained, and presents us with a challenge of much greater magnitude. It will be incredibly tedious and time-consuming, but using a combination of heat guns and sharpened putty knives seems to be the best solution. The challenge here is not gouging 60 year-old wood with the hot, sharp putty knofe. We are also running into large areas of rot where water managed to breach the fiberglass skin and soaked the wood in a largely anaerobic environment.
We will soldier onward, but want to make a plea to all woddy owners and restoers, “Please, please do not fiberglass your wood boats!” Doing so is a lose-lose proposition, especially for these irreplaceable artifacts of the past.