Leading Manufacturer for SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass for Buenos Aires Manufacturer

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Description

SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material.

Where to use

It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.

Key Features

1. High Modulus

2. UV resistance

3. Low vapor and gas transmission

4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass

5. 100% compatible to SV-8890

Technical data sheet

Certification

GB-24266-2009;

Color

Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black

Package

1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)

2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

Crep Protect launched in the summer of 2012 and has revolutionised the footwear industry, quickly becoming the ‘official’ shoe protector of choice. Whether your shoes are leather, suede, nubuck or canvas, Crep Protect is the ultimate rain and stain repellent. The brand is now firmly established in the UK and is in the process of launching across Europe and the US. In the same way people now ‘Google’ and ‘Hoover’, we now ‘Crep Protect’ …

The product is an invisible, optically clear protective barrier over your shoes, beading liquids to reduce stain and dirt deposits. The clever part of the product is the special ingredients that go into every can, which include a chemical unique to the brand. This has been carefully developed for 100% protection while leaving no traces or visible signs.

Crep Protect has become more than just a shoe spray; it’s a fashion lifestyle brand that has become synonymous with footwear. Think ‘Salt & Pepper’ and ‘Fish & Chips,’ well now we have ‘Footwear & Crep Protect.’

Here I am doing basic glass cutting on a scrap piece of glass, actually it’s a mirror. For much more videos about basic glass cutting, etc. see the playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL4A57AB2EFB9566F9&feature=plcp

Do not attempt to cut (pre) Tempered Glass, it cannot be cut and is designed to shatter to small pieces for safty purposes. You can cut (flat) Plate Glass.

The “glass cutter” does not actually cut through the glass, it just scratches or “scores” it, so it should be called either a “glass scratcher/scorer” or a “tool of glass cutting”.

The score is then used when you actually break or snap the glass along this “weakened” line (or even curves are possible). Technically, you try to “bend” both sides along the score downward to “open” (not compress) the crack up to the back side of the glass. In the vid. I show holding the piece of glass with my hands as a lot of people seem to do – especially with small pieces, but it’s safer to put the glass on a firm surface first and/or wear gloves.

To remove the sharp parts after cutting the glass, I used some sandstone I found down by the river. Just about any stone or cement will do, just dont use something too hard like smooth quartz since it tends to just “glide” over the glass. Use both straight and circular motion with the stone at about a 45 degree angle to the glass to bevel it to a non-sharp/thin semi-round surface. It is good though to have an electric grinder or rotary tool like a Dremel incase the break leaves some sizeable bumps of glass areas that would be difficult to grind by hand. If you dont have that, perhaps a larger piece of smooth cement might work ok.

Be sure to sweep up and vacuum any glass shards.

Note you can use a flat rule made of metal, wood, or plastic to guide the glass cutter, but be sure its not too thin since you do not want to damage the “cutting wheel” (the part that scores the glass) if it came in contact with metal.

About the tool I made; the ruler-straightedge with the rubber attached to the back. The rubber (or nylon) was cut from a bicycle inner-tube, and was attached with contact cement which is very sticky and somewhat flexible. This glue is sometimes called “rubber cement”. I got a tube for about $1. I also lightly scratched both surfaces of the rubber for better adhesion of the glue and for better “holding” ability on the glass. I guess you could also use some flat erasor type material too instead of the inner tube material. Silicone rubber or a thin coat or beads of dried caulking might be ok. Some tape can possibly be used to secure the straightrule, but you might have to clean up any residue left from the tape unless you put the tape right on the rule itself. When you cut the bicycle tube, avoid breathing the powder (usually talc or talcum), so rinse the tube segment with hot soapy water and let it dry.

Keep the “scoring wheel” oiled. I just keep/store that end in a glass with some clear oil in it. I use cheap “mineral oil” from the dollar/drug store.

Find some flat glass pieces and practice a bit on them so that you are prepared to cut glass when you need to.

Here is a good website about glass cutters, care and use:

https://www.freepatternsforstainedglass.com/your-glass-cutter.html