Hot-selling attractive price Siway PU FOAM to Greece Factories

Hot-selling attractive price
 Siway PU FOAM to Greece Factories
  • Hot-selling attractive price
 Siway PU FOAM to Greece FactoriesHot-selling attractive price
 Siway PU FOAM to Greece Factories
  • Hot-selling attractive price
 Siway PU FOAM to Greece FactoriesHot-selling attractive price
 Siway PU FOAM to Greece Factories
  • Hot-selling attractive price
 Siway PU FOAM to Greece FactoriesHot-selling attractive price
 Siway PU FOAM to Greece Factories

Short Description:

Description This product is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength; Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins;   Key Features 1. Noise silencing effect 2. Strong bonding strength 3. Water & weatherproof 4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials   Basic Application 1.Doors and Windows a...


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Product Tags

Our company has been focusing on brand strategy. Customers' satisfaction is our best advertising. We also supply OEM service for Hot-selling attractive price Siway PU FOAM to Greece Factories, Our professional technical team will be wholeheartedly at your service. We sincerely welcome you to visit our website and company and send us your inquiry.


Description

This product is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength;

Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins;

 

Key Features

1. Noise silencing effect

2. Strong bonding strength

3. Water & weatherproof

4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

 

Basic Application

1.Doors and Windows and wall body between the gap filling sealing, fixed bond

2.Language lab, studio, etc when decorating, gap to fill

 

Technical data sheet

Project

Value

Density, Kg/m³,Not less

10

Thermal conductivity,35℃,W/(m·K) no more than

0.050

Dimensional stability(23±2)℃,48,h no more than

5

Operating temperature

-10~+35℃

Optimum operating temperature

+18~+25℃

Temperature range(After curing)

-35~+80℃

Tensile bond strength

kPa

Not less

Aluminum plate

Standard condition,7d

80

Immersion,7d

60

PVC plate

Standard condition,7d

80

Immersion,7d

60

Cement Plate

Standard condition,7d

60

Shear strength,kpa,Not less

80

Foam expansion ratio,Not less

Standard value-10

 

Certification

JC 936-2004

 

Color

White

 

Package

750ml in Bottle * 12 per box

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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  • A few people have asked about the products that were used for this project…

    The first layer (troweled over the metal lathe to about 1/4″ thickness) can be a high-polymer thinset mortar that is normally used for setting porcelain tiles. For added flexibility and stickiness, polymer admix can be used instead of water when preparing the mix. The second layer can be a polymer enriched sanded grout, again prepared with polymer admix instead of water. And the third and final layer(s) can be unsanded grout without the polymer addition (the top layers want to not be so sticky). The sanding steps don’t really have to be intensive if your trowel work produces the flatness that you desire.

    For this project I made my own mixes using raw cement, lime, and fancier cementitious materials just because I wanted to learn and experiment. But over-the-counter materials as mentioned in the above paragraph are essencially the same. To finish I used a few coats of a food-safe solvent based tile sealer, the kind used for non glazed porcelain and terracotta tiles, followed by a cocktail mixture of tung oil, natural solvent, beeswax, and carnuba wax to seal the surface.

    It has been a year and a half since the project was completed, and I WOULD do this again. You should know however that the surface DOES “stain.” Over time and use it develops a patina. Common use areas morph into different shades and colors depending on what was above those areas and for how long. This may be a deal-breaker for some people, however this is exactly the look I was trying to achieve. Over time the varying shades blend into use-shapes as you would expect for example from leather or copper goods. It should also be mentioned that doing a concrete counter this way as opposed to the pour-in method or making a mold, saved many hundreds of extra pounds of dead weight sitting on the cabinets and weighing down on the foundation.

    Lastly – to get experience with the process I experimented with a couple af ad hoc counters to be used as gardening tables (seen in the very early parts of the video). This ended up to be very important since from the start I realized I was going to make a big mess.



    Terry talks about Tyvek which is a rain shield that protects the house from moisture. When water goes through a homes siding, it hypothetically hits this barrier and runs down to the ground. Terry further notes that the rain shield does not provide air sealing; instead, all the air sealing is already taking place behind the Tyvek in the polyisocyanurate foam, OSB, and behind the OSB where the spray foam has been applied.

    Furring strips are put over the Tyvek, so that when siding is placed over it, there is an air space between the siding and rain shield. In other words, air can circulate beneath the siding to dry it out if it gets too wet thus avoiding a possibility of deterioration. The window trim is then put up on top of the furring strips. A bug screen is then applied on top and bottom of the furring strips and Tyvek. The siding, fiber cement Hardie board, is finally put on. The practice of putting on furring strips on top of the rain shield is different from traditional building where this step is skipped; instead, the siding is put right on top of the rain shield.

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