Good Wholesale Vendors SMP-333 Industrial silane modified polyether sealant for Qatar Factory
Description SMP333 Industrial Silane Modified Polyether Sealant is a transparent single component, high performance, neutral curing adhesive. The product is green and does not contain toxic and harmful substances. It has good bonding ability for most substrates such as metal, ceramics, wood, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polycarbonate (PC). After curing, the surface can be coated and can be widely Used in a variety of train / bus / car and other motor vehicles, elevator cars, containers, machi...
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SMP333 Industrial Silane Modified Polyether Sealant is a transparent single component, high performance, neutral curing adhesive. The product is green and does not contain toxic and harmful substances. It has good bonding ability for most substrates such as metal, ceramics, wood, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polycarbonate (PC). After curing, the surface can be coated and can be widely Used in a variety of train / bus / car and other motor vehicles, elevator cars, containers, machinery and equipment, electrical equipment and other areas of the adhesive seal.
1.Environmental protection products: fast curing, low VOC, non-toxic and tasteless, non-polluting substrate, no corrosion.
2.The surface can be painted: the surface can be sprayed after the surface coating paint color.
3.Good operability: one-component, easy to operate, in the 4 ℃ ~ 40 ℃ temperature range has a good extrudability, with a plastic gun extrusion can be directly.
4.Excellent adhesion: with metal, ceramics, wood and PVC, PC, PA and other materials with excellent adhesion, without the use of primer.
5.Excellent weather resistance, aging resistance, dielectric and mechanical properties.
Where to use
Train / bus / car and other motor vehicle body, interior, floor, air conditioning and other systems of bonding and sealing.
Mobile phones, tablet PCs, navigators, digital cameras and other electrical equipment bonding seal.
Containers, elevator cars, ventilation equipment, such as seams sealed.
Electronics, machinery, ships and other areas of the adhesive seal.
Other suitable for this product in the field of bonding and sealing purposes.
Technical data sheet
|Test standard||Test project||Unit||value|
|coloer||Black, white, gray|
|GB13477||surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||15-60|
|GB528||Elongation at break||%||600|
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 500ml in sausage *20 per box
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
MATERIALS: Wood shapes from your local craft store, Egg Shells that have been cleaned (preferably soaked in very hot water) then dried completely, Tacky Glue, Transparent Acrylic Paint (or) Permanent Dye, Black Ink Pad – Lastly a jump ring to hang the finished item from.
(Watercolors will work but if you brush on your glaze they will rehydrate meaning it may cause smudging- Can be avoided by using an acrylic clear coat to avoid brushing over the surface)
Sealant & Glaze: Decoupage Gloss Sealer & Triple Thick Glaze
Tools: Hand Drill or Power Drill, Pliers
■ LINKS FOR THE GLOSS SEALER:
HOBBY LOBBY ONLINE:
■ LINK FOR WOOD PENDANT PIECES:
Take your wooden shape and coat it in a layer of Tacky Glue. (I would not suggest Elmer’s glue. It is too thin for this project. You want something very sticky that will hold the egg shells upon contact. Quick dry tacky glue also works very well.)
After you coat the wooden shape press down your egg shells. It helps to ‘size’ the shells so that they will fit what you are trying to cover. Treat them like puzzle pieces and get them to line up as best you can without having too much excess waste hanging over.
Press down gently working to push the shells in to the glue. Let it dry and do not try to pick off the edges. It will look ugly but you need to let it dry!
After it is dry gently start to crack the egg shells around the edge of the shape. Work carefully so you don’t pry the shells from the face of the pendant. If you find you messed up and took a big chunk off you can try to glue it back on and let it sit another half an hour or so before moving to the next step.
Once all the edges are cleaned up you will need to sand them. Sanding blocks work very well for this. You can make one by wrapping a piece of sandpaper around an extra piece of wood (the same you are using for your pendants) or use a piece of foam like I did in the video. You can also use a nail file if you find you have no sandpaper available to you.
Once the edges are sanded nicely you can go ahead and start painting the shells with your acrylics. Try to get the colors light in some places while dark in others. Variations make this look much more elegant. You may do one coat and then go back with a second to touch up and add some final ‘depth’ to the paint job. Let dry fully. (Half an hour should suffice.)
INK PAD TIP: It helps if you store it upside down so the ink is at the surface when you need it.
Okay… Now it’s time to grab your ink pad- I suggest black. Blot it on the surface of the egg shell pendant. Lightly dab the ink pad on to the shells and you will soon notice that the crevices are left untouched but some of the egg shells have turned black. Don’t panic, it’s fine.
Spray your Decoupage Spray Sealer (or an acrylic spray if you are substituting) on to your pendant. Let them set about 5 minutes and carefully move them to another surface to dry. You don’t want them sticking!
As the spray coating starts to dry you’ll notice that the ink from the ink pad is concentrating in some areas while leaving others. It’s a random act and it can end up with a nice pendant just as easily as it can create a bad one. It’s sort of hit or miss in that sense.
Once the spray coating is fully set pick the ones that you feel are worthy of the final coating and give them one to three coats of Triple Thick Glaze. I’d say two would be fine but if you want to build it up more a third may be used. Let dry completely.
Finally, use your hand drill (or a power drill for those of you who have them) and make your hole in the pendant. Flip the pendant around and look at it from all possible angles… because once that hole is drilled that is how it will hang forever. Make sure you like the direction it is hanging and then, only then, make the hole.
TIP: Do not drill on a surface that you want to keep hole-free. It is very easy to go through the pendant and into the surface behind it with a drill bit so use caution. Using an old phone book or a stack of cardboard is very useful and protects your work surface from getting nicked and damaged from the bit going a little too far.
Add a jump ring to the hole and hang it from whatever sort of chain, string or fabric you would like.
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