Factory wholesale price for SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to Bulgaria Manufacturer

Factory wholesale price for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to Bulgaria Manufacturer
  • Factory wholesale price for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to Bulgaria ManufacturerFactory wholesale price for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to Bulgaria Manufacturer
  • Factory wholesale price for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to Bulgaria ManufacturerFactory wholesale price for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to Bulgaria Manufacturer
  • Factory wholesale price for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to Bulgaria ManufacturerFactory wholesale price for
 SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to Bulgaria Manufacturer

Short Description:

Description SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material.   Where to use It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.   Key Features 1. High Modulus 2. UV resistance 3. Low vapor and gas transmission 4. Primerless adhesion...


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Description

SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material.

 

Where to use

It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.

 

Key Features

1. High Modulus

2. UV resistance

3. Low vapor and gas transmission

4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass

5. 100% compatible to SV-8890

 

Technical data sheet

Test standard Test project Unit value
Before curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB13477 Specific gravity(After mixing)   1.33
GB13477 Operating time min 20-40
GB13477 surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) min 80-188
corrosivity     No
7 days after curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB/T 531 Durometer Hardness Shore A 40
GB13477 The tensile modulus at 12.5% elongation Mpa 0.18
  The ultimate tensile strength Mpa 0.92
GB13477 Elongation limit (fracture) % 150

 

Certification

GB-24266-2009;

 

Color

Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black

 

Package

1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)

2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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  • In this video, we begin tackling the monumental project of resealing the exterior of the RV. Although this project tested our patience and stamina, we know that doing this job the right way will be worth it in the long run. Knowing we’re doing all we can to prevent future water damage is a great feeling.

    We start the job by removing all of the leaky, weathered butyl tape and removing the rusty, ancient awnings that really don’t add any value to the rig. Then we move onto removing the crumbling, stubborn silicone sealant that should never ever EVER be used on the exterior of an RV… EVER lol.

    To remove every last morsel of the old, cracked silicone caulk we used a putty knife, adhesive remover, mineral spirits, and good ol’ elbow grease. After it was all removed, we filled in any gaps with fresh butyl tape (the waterproof putty tape that goes underneath the caulk/sealant). In the next video, we apply new sealant (non-silicone) to the entire exterior of the RV to ensure it is finally waterproof.

    Why are we hating on silicone? Well, for starters silicone is extremely hard to remove. Secondly, silicone doesn’t stick to itself. This means that in a year or so when you need to repair a cracked or leaky spot of your silicone caulking – you have to remove literally EVERY speck of it to get it to adhere and create a water-tight seal. It’s absolute madness. You might be wondering if silicone is such a bad option, why is it used so frequently? Good question. We have NO IDEA!

    If you’d like to support this channel for FREE by doing your normal, everyday shopping, just click on this Amazon link and shop away! :) https://www.amazon.com/?tag=duetju20-20

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    - Michael and Jenny Justus

    Have you ever wondered what it takes to live full-time in an RV? Follow our journey on social media as we search for what it really means to live…

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    CAMERA GEAR:

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    Canon 18-135 STM lens → https://amzn.to/2eMf6Gs
    Canon 10-18 wide angle STM lens → https://amzn.to/2eMcF6C
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    Windscreen → https://amzn.to/2ae4VGW
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    Lighting kit → https://amzn.to/2dZW0fz
    3-axis motorized gimbal → https://amzn.to/2dEIFs3

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    RV INFO:

    NAME: HaRVey Dent
    STYLE: Class C motorhome
    YEAR: 1989
    MODEL: Yellowstone Camino Classic
    LENGTH: 28ft + Hitch and scooter
    WEIGHT: 10,000 lb (approx.)
    CHASSIS: Ford Econoline Club Wagon (e350)
    ENGINE: Ford 460 7.5L V8 engine
    ODOMETER: 47,000
    MPG: 6.5 (on average)

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    MUSICAL CREDITS:

    Track 1: Blank [NCS Release] by Disfigure

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    I used Dicor self-leveling lap sealant and Dicor Fiberglass Roof Coating to repair and re-seal the roof of my 1992 Rexhall Airex Motorhome. Hopefully this will be of value to you, too, as you tackle your own RV roof project.
    One of my biggest challenges was finding dry, warm weather. Seemed like it was rainy on all my free days, making this project take several weeks from start to finish.
    I warn you in advance that there are some annoying parts of the video with lots of wind noise, even to the point of drowning out what I’m trying to say. Sorry about that.
    The video ends with a slide show of before, during, and after pictures of this project. They certainly highlight the poor condition of the roof, as well as how much better it looks now that it’s done!

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