Factory Cheap Hot SV-8890 Two-component Silicone Structural Glazing Sealant Export to Malaysia
Description SV8890 is neutral curing, designed for glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal designed silicone sealant structure, excellent bonding performance of structure and the weathering resistance, after artificial accelerated weathering test, various physical and chemical properties have no obvious change in the sealant. When using, SV8890 with dedicated two-component glue machine constructi...
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SV8890 is neutral curing, designed for glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal designed silicone sealant structure, excellent bonding performance of structure and the weathering resistance, after artificial accelerated weathering test, various physical and chemical properties have no obvious change in the sealant. When using, SV8890 with dedicated two-component glue machine construction, two kinds of components in accordance with the provisions, mixing ratio after curing form elastomer.
1. None sag
2. Adjustable working time
3. Excellent adhesion to most building substrates
4. High bonding strength and modulus
6. Silicone durability
1.Glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal;
2.Insulating Glass of the second seal
3.Many other building and industrial applications
Technical data sheet
|Flow, sagging or vertical flow||mm||0|
|surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||40-60|
|Durometer Hardness||Shore A||20-60|
|At 23 ℃ maximum tensile strength elongation||%||≥100|
|Tensile strength（flooding – ultraviolet）||Mpa||0.68|
|Bond damage area||%||5|
|Thermal aging（thermal weight loss）||%||≤5|
Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black
1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)
2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Check out our blog for clickable links to the items below!
Things you will need:
- Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
- Above Ground Pool Pump
- Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
- Hole Saw with Arbor
- Plunger Valves
- Pool Outlet
- 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
- 1 Strainer Nut
Other things you will need for maintenance:
- Chlorine Tablets
- Floating Pool Dispenser
- Water Testing Kit
Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.
Used 70 gallon Applied Silicone Corp planetary vacuum mixer, stainless steel construction, with anchor agitator with bottom and side wall scrappers driven by 7.5 hp motor, high speed disperser driven by 7.5 hp motor, gallon stainless steel mixing can, approximately 28″ diameter x 28″ deep, vacuum cover, hydraulic lift with 1.5 hp hydraulic pump, 230 volt, built 1999.