Competitive Price for SV-777 silicone sealant for stone to El Salvador Manufacturers
Description SV-777 silicone sealant for stone, is an elastomer sealant in modulus, single. Waterproof joints need to be sensitive to natural stone, glass and metal building clean appearance panel for sealing design, it to the moisture in the air after curing in contact, the formation of elastic rubber sealing performance, durability, weather resistance, good combination with most building materials. Key Features 1. 100% silicone 2. Minimized fluid migration 3. Low dirt pick up 4. Water &...
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SV-777 silicone sealant for stone, is an elastomer sealant in modulus, single. Waterproof joints need to be sensitive to natural stone, glass and metal building clean appearance panel for sealing design, it to the moisture in the air after curing in contact, the formation of elastic rubber sealing performance, durability, weather resistance, good combination with most building materials.
1. 100% silicone
2. Minimized fluid migration
3. Low dirt pick up
4. Water & weatherproof
5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials
6. 25% movement capability
1.Stone curtain wall sealing
2.Engineering ceramic sealing
3.Stone and other materials such as glass, metal seam sealing
Technical data sheet
|Test standard||Test project||Unit||value|
|ASTM C 679||Flow, sagging or vertical flow||mm||0|
|GB13477||surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||30|
|Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃，50%R.H.|
|GB13477||Durometer Hardness||Shore A||30|
|GB13477||The ultimate tensile strength||Mpa||0.7|
|ASTM C 1248||Pollution / oil, natural stone||No|
25HM GB/T 23261-2009；ASTM C920-2011
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
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In this video, I show you how the thermostat works, how to test it, and how to diagnose an issue with the cooling system of an E46.
I used an OBDII to bluetooth adaptor and the android app Torque to keep an eye on the temperature, you can also record the screen with “AZ Screen Recorder” so that you can watch it later, and see the flucuation in temperature while driving.
Below are the steps as I remember them, they may be incomplete, but shoud give a good idea of how to do it:
1.) Drive the car onto a ramp.
2.) Remove the push pin center fasteners/philips screws from the lower engine protection pan.
3.) Drain the coolant from the radiator drain screw, open the bleed screw and cap to increase flow. Optional: Drain the coolant from the engine block by removing the 13mm bolt on the block below cylinder #2(2nd from the front, rear cylinder is #6 closest to the rear of the car), MAKE sure you close the all the other bleed screws and cap before doing this, so that the coolant flows slowly, once the 13mm bolt is out, then you can open the top bleed screw by the radiator cap to increase flow.
4.) Remove the plastic intake duct to the filter box.
5.) Use a 32mm open end wrench and turn clockwise on the fan nut, if you don’t have a fan clutch bar to hold it steady, use a hammer to hit the wrench in the clockwise position to unlock the nut, it should come loose with a medium hammer hit, if it is siezed on there, you’ll need a clutch bar to hold it steady. You can retighten with the same method(hammering).
6.) Remove all the bolts for the thermostat, remove the hoses for the thermostat by pulling the locking pins, a flat head can be used to pry the hoses away from the thermostat.(The plastic will break if it’s brittle).
7.) Clean the surface with a flat scraper, be careful of the sharp edges of the aluminum block.
8.) Use an RTV silicone meant for water pumps, and create a bead along the outside of the new gasket on the new thermostat. These thermostats have been known to leak due to a poor rubber gasket(BMW should us a high quality silicone gasket), so the RTV silicone is a must if you don’t want a leak.
9.) Install everything as you removed it, except the radiator cap and top bleed screw, leave those loose since you’ll be adding coolant.
10.) With the engine off, fill the system with approximately 8.5L of 50/50 antifreeze. Any antifreeze meant for new engines(aluminum) blocks will do. To avoid a mess, wrap a rag around the bleed screw and radiator fill port to catch radiator fluid.
11.) Turn on the engine, the coolant that was full will now be drained by the water pump, top up the coolant once again.
12.) Drive the car down from the ramps, put the cabin heater on high, fan on high. Rev the engine a bit(~3500RPM max, or the radiator fluid will splash out of the fill port), pump it a few times to move the air out from the system to the radiator cap/bleed screw location. Top up the coolant once again as required.
13.) Give it 5 minutes to heat up and open the thermostat, rev the engine a bit and add coolant as needed.
14.) Once coolant starts to leak from the bleed screw, close it. Now the engine should be warm, the thermostat should be open, and the air bubbles should be out of the system. Now the system should be full of fluid, and have no air bubbles.
15.) Install the radiator cap, drive the vehicle around the block a few times, getting it revved up to about 4500RPM should get the remaining air bubbles out, nothing crazy like 6500RPM is required.
16.) Park the car, and let it cool for at least 2 hours, then open the bleed screw beside the radiator cap again, it should release some air and then fluid should come out, as soon as fluid comes out close it, and your system should operate properly.
Engine a properly working cooling system!
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