Competitive Price for SV-311 Polyurethane Sealant for Construction for Turkmenistan Factory

Competitive Price for
 SV-311 Polyurethane Sealant for Construction for Turkmenistan Factory
  • Competitive Price for
 SV-311 Polyurethane Sealant for Construction for Turkmenistan FactoryCompetitive Price for
 SV-311 Polyurethane Sealant for Construction for Turkmenistan Factory
  • Competitive Price for
 SV-311 Polyurethane Sealant for Construction for Turkmenistan FactoryCompetitive Price for
 SV-311 Polyurethane Sealant for Construction for Turkmenistan Factory

Short Description:

Description SV-311  is a one component polyurethane high modulus flexible sealant formulated as reliable bonding adhesive and joint sealant for construction industry, particularly where a higher modulus and lower movement capacity are required for joints with low or medium movement, e.g. connection joints between floor/stairs and wall, connection joints between floor and machinery, seam sealing / sealing of pipe ducts / ventilation systems, multipurpose joints in metal and wood construction w...


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Description

SV-311  is a one component polyurethane high modulus flexible sealant formulated as reliable bonding adhesive and joint sealant for construction industry, particularly where a higher modulus and lower movement capacity are required for joints with low or medium movement, e.g. connection joints between floor/stairs and wall, connection joints between floor and machinery, seam sealing / sealing of pipe ducts / ventilation systems, multipurpose joints in metal and wood construction work.

 

Key Features

1. Non-sag consistency 

2. Excellent adhesion to most common building materials

3. High tear strength 

4. High tensile strength

5. Less fluid migration to porous material

 

Technical data sheet
Test standard Test project Unit value
GB13477 density g/m³ 1.20±0.1
GB13477 Flow, sagging or vertical flow mm 0
GB13477 surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) min 30
  Curing speed mm/24h 3
GB13477 Durometer Hardness Shore A 25-35
GB13477 100% tensile strength Mpa ≤0.4
GB13477 The elastic recovery rate % 80
  Maximum seam width mm 35
  Minimum seam width mm 8

Color

White, black, grey

 

Package

300ml plastic cartridges and 600ml in sausage

 

Shelf life

9 months 

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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    Check out our blog for clickable links to the items below!
    Blog- https://www.heywandererblog.com/2017/06/diy-stock-tank-pool-everything-you-need.html
    Instagram- www.instagram.com/heywanderer
    E-mail- heywanderer@gmail.com

    Things you will need:
    - Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
    - Above Ground Pool Pump
    - Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
    - Hole Saw with Arbor
    - Plunger Valves
    - Pool Outlet
    - 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
    - 1 Strainer Nut

    Other things you will need for maintenance:
    - Chlorine Tablets
    - Floating Pool Dispenser
    - Water Testing Kit

    Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
    Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
    Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
    Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
    Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
    Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
    Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.

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