China supplier OEM SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant for Malaysia Factory
Short Description:
Description SV – 999 silicone structural sealant is a one-component, neutral curing, designed for glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall, glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural assembly silicone sealant. Show the effective physical properties and bonding performance Key Features 1. 100% silicone 2. No sag 3. Strong bonding strength 4. Water & weatherproof 5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials 6. 25% movement capability Basic Application...
Sticking to the principle of "Super Quality, Satisfactory service" ,We are striving to be a good business partner of you for China supplier OEM SV-999 Structural Glazing Silicone Sealant for Malaysia Factory, We welcome new and old customers from all walks of life to contact us for future business relationships and achieving mutual success!
Description
SV – 999 silicone structural sealant is a one-component, neutral curing, designed for glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall, glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural assembly silicone sealant. Show the effective physical properties and bonding performance
Key Features
1. 100% silicone
2. No sag
3. Strong bonding strength
4. Water & weatherproof
5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials
6. 25% movement capability
Basic Application
1.Glass curtain wall, aluminum curtain wall structure adhesive seal
2.Glass daylighting roof, metal structure engineering
3.Insulating glass bonding
Technical data sheet
| Test standard | Test project | Unit | value |
| Before curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| specific gravity | g/ml | 1.40 | |
| GB13477 | Flow, sagging or vertical flow | mm | 0 |
| GB13477 | Operating time | min | 15 |
| GB13477 | surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.） | min | 40-60 |
| Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| GB13477 | Durometer Hardness | Shore A | 40 |
| The ultimate tensile strength | Mpa | 1.3 | |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（23℃） | Mpa | 0.8 |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（90℃） | Mpa | 0.5 |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（-30℃） | Mpa | 0.9 |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（flooding） | Mpa | 0.6 |
| GB13477 | Tensile strength（flooding – ultraviolet） | Mpa | 0.6 |
Certification
GB 16776；ASTM C1184
Color
Black
Package
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 500ml in sausage *20 per box
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
This is the video on making latex build-up heads, to go with the one I did for making bodies. As usual, it goes by pretty fast, so you might want to watch it once to just look at the pictures, then a second time to read the text.
This is a way to make heads that have some movement, without having to sculpt in clay, make a plaster mould, and cast in foam latex or silicone rubber. The heads tend to be a bit rough, though not always as rough as these, it’s hard sculpting at arm’s length where I can’t see what I’m doing, just so the camera gets a good view!
There are other options, like replacement heads or hard heads with clay or replacement mouths, but I haven’t done any of those yet.
Part 2 will be how to sculpt, mould, and cast a head in silicone, for when you need something that is smoother or more accurate than this. It may be a while before I have time to do it.
Once again, thanks to Kevin MacLeod at Incompetech.com for the use of his music.
A few people have asked about the products that were used for this project…
The first layer (troweled over the metal lathe to about 1/4″ thickness) can be a high-polymer thinset mortar that is normally used for setting porcelain tiles. For added flexibility and stickiness, polymer admix can be used instead of water when preparing the mix. The second layer can be a polymer enriched sanded grout, again prepared with polymer admix instead of water. And the third and final layer(s) can be unsanded grout without the polymer addition (the top layers want to not be so sticky). The sanding steps don’t really have to be intensive if your trowel work produces the flatness that you desire.
For this project I made my own mixes using raw cement, lime, and fancier cementitious materials just because I wanted to learn and experiment. But over-the-counter materials as mentioned in the above paragraph are essencially the same. To finish I used a few coats of a food-safe solvent based tile sealer, the kind used for non glazed porcelain and terracotta tiles, followed by a cocktail mixture of tung oil, natural solvent, beeswax, and carnuba wax to seal the surface.
It has been a year and a half since the project was completed, and I WOULD do this again. You should know however that the surface DOES “stain.” Over time and use it develops a patina. Common use areas morph into different shades and colors depending on what was above those areas and for how long. This may be a deal-breaker for some people, however this is exactly the look I was trying to achieve. Over time the varying shades blend into use-shapes as you would expect for example from leather or copper goods. It should also be mentioned that doing a concrete counter this way as opposed to the pour-in method or making a mold, saved many hundreds of extra pounds of dead weight sitting on the cabinets and weighing down on the foundation.
Lastly – to get experience with the process I experimented with a couple af ad hoc counters to be used as gardening tables (seen in the very early parts of the video). This ended up to be very important since from the start I realized I was going to make a big mess.
