Bottom price for SV-900 Industrial MS polymer silicone sealant for United Kingdom Factories
Description It is one component, primer less, can be painted, high quality joint sealant based on MS polymer technology, ideal for all sealing and boding on all materials. It is solvent free, environmental protection product. Where to use Sealing and bonding in housing area, bus, train, elevator, air conditioner, ventilation equipment. Used for installing fixed panel frame, windowsill threshold, and suitable for sealing on all materials surface, like painted metal, glass, wood, concret...
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It is one component, primer less, can be painted, high quality joint sealant based on MS polymer technology, ideal for all sealing and boding on all materials. It is solvent free, environmental protection product.
Where to use
Sealing and bonding in housing area, bus, train, elevator, air conditioner, ventilation equipment. Used for installing fixed panel frame, windowsill threshold, and suitable for sealing on all materials surface, like painted metal, glass, wood, concrete, marble, natural stone, granite, bricks, mirrors, aluminum, steel, lead, zinc, common plastics, polystyrene, polyurethane and so on. Sealing the joint of ceiling, timber, gaps of water pipe, gutter on roofs, moved rooms, container, marine. Apply for interior and exterior family decoration, like floor adhesive systems, particular for laying floor tiles, suitable for kitchen, bathroom.
1. Paint able
2. Sealing most materials
3. Excellent adhesion
Technical data sheet
|Test standard||Test project||Unit||value|
|GB13477||Flow, sagging or vertical flow||mm||0|
|GB13477||surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||30|
|Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.14days after curing——25℃，50%R.H.|
|GB13477||Durometer Hardness||Shore A||32-38|
|GB13477||The ultimate tensile strength||Mpa||2.5|
|GB13477||elongation at break||%||400|
White, black, grey
300ml plastic cartridges
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Check out our blog for clickable links to the items below!
Things you will need:
- Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
- Above Ground Pool Pump
- Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
- Hole Saw with Arbor
- Plunger Valves
- Pool Outlet
- 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
- 1 Strainer Nut
Other things you will need for maintenance:
- Chlorine Tablets
- Floating Pool Dispenser
- Water Testing Kit
Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.
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ARCADECK is designed to waterproof terraced areas built on porous substrates. ARCADECK will cover and protect the substrate by preventing it from deterioration caused by foot traffic, cracking and water ingress.
ARDACECK provides an elastic waterproof coating on terrace areas, decks and balconies. ARCADECK will not modify the original structure with added weight or size. Where building regulations limit the weight of the structure and where extra product thickness will prevent a door from opening out onto your terrace, ARCADECK is the ideal solution to achieve a new waterproof deck which will leave your original deck unchanged in size.
ARCADECK, ideal for use on new and old exterior porous substrates (cement,concrete,stone, tiling and brick) provides a decorative matt finish.