29 Years Factory Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B for Luxembourg Factories
Short Description:
Description SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion. Key Features 1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive 2. Fast cure at room temperature,...
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Description
SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion.
Key Features
1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive
2. Fast cure at room temperature, <40 min for reaching a tack-free status under standard environment (STD: 23℃, 50% humidity)
3. Mix ratio of 1:1 by volume or by weight
4. Good mechanical property
5. Bonds a wide variety of building materials
6. Good waterproofing and chemical resistance
Basic Application
1, the external walls of stone material, ceramic and other hang bond;
2, concrete, ceramics, stone, wood and other prefabricated split, bonding and jointing;
3, concrete, stone and so on crack repair;
4, the structure of the localization, anchor, reinforcement and reinforcement.
Technical data sheet
The following data is for reference only and is not recommended for the specification
| Shear strength | Stainless steel-stainless steel/Standard conditions | ≥18 | JC887-2001 | ||
| Pressure shear strength | Stone-stone/ Standard conditions | ≥12 | |||
| Stone-stone/ The freeze-thaw cycle 50 times | ≥10 | ||||
| Stone – stainless steel/ Standard conditions | ≥12 | ||||
| Standard conditions：Temperature=23℃，relative humidity=50%，48 hours curing | |||||
| attribute | SV-602-A | SV-602-B | SV-602(After mixing) | ||
| Colour | gray | white | grey | ||
| Density(g/cm³) | 1.8 | 1.8 | 1.8 | ||
| Viscosity（PaS） | 200-400 | 150-250 | |||
| Effective operating time(23℃) | N/A | N/A | 20min | ||
Certification
JC 887-2001
Color
Part A-Grey Paste/Part B-White Paste
Package
9kg/9kg per unit and 15kg/15kg per unit
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Over time I’ve been noticing small cracks appearing on my Keystone Cougar fifth wheel trailers plastic fenders. The cracking is taking place around the screws holding the fenders to the trailer sidewall. It started off with one or two but is slowly progressing to more and more every year. If this kept up and left unchecked, I fear one day I’d lose a fender during travel.
So, I decided this summer to pull the fenders off and see what could be done to beef them up, stop the cracking and prevent a full on failure. A reader recently contacted me via email with some insight to the problem. He believes the cracking might be caused by the indented area for the screws not being flush with the backside.
Ray,
At the end of your shelf repair video, you showed a shot of the cracks around the mounting screws for the fenders.
I just removed the fenders from my trailer so I could caulk the steel wheel tubs to the side of the trailer.
Upon reinstallation of the plastic fenders, I noticed that the indents for the screws are not flush with the back side.
If you over tighten the screws it is going to crack the plastic.
There is room enough to put a washer between the fender and the sidewall.
You might be able to epoxy a washer on the back side to reinforce the plastic.
I enjoy your videos.
Arthur
I elected to take Arthur’s advice and use some washers on the back side of the fender behind the screw holes. Instead of using epoxy I chose to use SikaFlex 291 sealant. I embedded the washer into the Sikaflex and then applied a healthy layer of it all around the indented plastic area. On the front side of the fender behind each screw, I added a small rubber grommet.
Time will tell but I believe the repair and modifications made should help extend the life of my fenders and at least prevent a catastrophic failure at speed on a highway. If not, thanks to thunderbird97 on YouTube for pointing me to a website to order up a replacement set.
“thunderbird97 - Ray here is a website I ordered my fender skirts in case you need it, https://www.icondirect.com , the only difference was old ones were thicker, new ones are made out of better material, holes matched up perfect. Here is the Canada site www.icondirect.ca”
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In this video I show two ways to patch a hole in a hollow core door.
Expanding Foam Stuff→ https://amzn.to/2dMYsV5
Caulking Gun (pricey one)→ https://amzn.to/2eg94xB
Caulk→ https://amzn.to/2egSmhx
-The reason I use adhesive caulk and not drywall mud is because acrylic caulk is flexible and will not crack later on.
-If you are spraying in the foam put something below the door so that if it floods out it will not drip on the carpet as it dries. Or tape one side of the opening of a plastic shopping bag [so it hangs in an open position] right below the door hole so that if it drips out, it drips into the bag.
-If you are patching a large hole, take the door off and lay it flat. It will help the foam not run down the door. Also you will want to use an autobody filler like Bondo to coat very large holes, acrylic latex may be too hard to work with.
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The camera I use: https://amzn.to/2ec3wTx
My backup camera: https://amzn.to/2edXF1e
Super handy tripod: https://amzn.to/2dfVRTq
Wireless Mic I sometimes use: https://amzn.to/2dAgquC
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South Jordan UT 84095
Disclaimer:
This video is only for entertainment purposes. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or from the information in this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and is to be used at the discretion of the end user/viewer and not AdamDIY and or Adam Hill. If you are uncertain about any step of the process, or feel unsure about your skill level, seek a more authoritative source.
