29 Years Factory Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B for British Factories
Description SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion. Key Features 1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive 2. Fast cure at room temperature,...
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SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion.
1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive
2. Fast cure at room temperature, <40 min for reaching a tack-free status under standard environment (STD: 23℃, 50% humidity)
3. Mix ratio of 1:1 by volume or by weight
4. Good mechanical property
5. Bonds a wide variety of building materials
6. Good waterproofing and chemical resistance
1, the external walls of stone material, ceramic and other hang bond;
2, concrete, ceramics, stone, wood and other prefabricated split, bonding and jointing;
3, concrete, stone and so on crack repair;
4, the structure of the localization, anchor, reinforcement and reinforcement.
Technical data sheet
The following data is for reference only and is not recommended for the specification
|Shear strength||Stainless steel-stainless steel/Standard conditions||≥18||JC887-2001|
|Pressure shear strength||Stone-stone/ Standard conditions||≥12|
|Stone-stone/ The freeze-thaw cycle 50 times||≥10|
|Stone – stainless steel/ Standard conditions||≥12|
|Standard conditions：Temperature=23℃，relative humidity=50%，48 hours curing|
|Effective operating time(23℃)||N/A||N/A||20min|
Part A-Grey Paste/Part B-White Paste
9kg/9kg per unit and 15kg/15kg per unit
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Learn how to quickly draught-proof a hinge door in this step-by-step video for those new to DIY. We do an internal door in this video but the same process applies to an external door. Draught-proofing doors is one of the quickest and cheapest things you can do to keep your home warmer in winter and cooler in summer.
How to Attach Undermount Sink to Slab Using Silicone
Books here to show you how to glue undermount sinks to your vanity top? We use one of two glue we’re going to use a hundred percent silicone adhesive we typically stick to G brands available way home depot lowes or lock type. If you use the loctite specifically for marble and granite otherwise you risk it seeping through and staining stone you don’t need a lot of tools, we use these really basic clamps that we get from harbor freight like five dollars, a clamp caulk gun board and some cardboard. The most important thing when you are doing your vanity top is clean both top of the sink in the underside of the slab otherwise you’re going to dust. The most important thing is to clean really well use a rag to really clean up the underside, if you don’t clean it well things just not going to stick that’s the long and short of it, I also like to clean up a sink itself. We’re applying the glue all the dust off there right now.
That’s set I’ve got some silicone already charged up in the cold gun and I’m not just give it a fat bead around the perimeter so in the sink right now I’ve got one of these clans really basic lamps they slide up and down so I got they come apart I put one end of the inside the sink and then attach the other side. Now up here I’m going to put on some cardboard just in case we don’t scratch things up going to put a board right here and I’m going to lift up the sink and I’m going to clamp it down to the board. Now, I do some more minor adjustment here and at this point you want to square up the sink to make sure that the overhang is pretty even on all sides. Alright so we’ve got the sink straight now all the excess silicone that came out on the inside of the sink just scooped up with my finger and I put it back on the outside smoothed out the outside and really just make sure everything was nice and square had to move around the board a little bit wiped away as much access as I could whatever acts as they can’t wait a white boy with later with some acetone potentially. Sometimes a razor blade helps to clean up but as long as you take care of most of it when it’s still wet you’re not going to have any trouble.
All right so it’s been about two days since we glued this one, very important note as always follow the instructions on the bottle for how long the glue should set of this silicon said 24 hours for under some cure you wait at least 24 hours we try to wait a day and a half so we finish this saturday it’s now sunday and take it off and see how things went. All right sink looks pretty good to me nothing that flip it over so you can see what kind of smear it across here and let’s do a little strength test on the silicon this is probably a 40-pound slab that thing’s going nowhere there forever unless you take a knife and cut this off. So that’s the good thing about silicon is that if you were to screw the side somehow you can always just try again by grabbing a knife when cutting off the silicon whereas you can’t do that with the liquid nails are locked a products.