25 Years Factory SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for Malta Factories

25 Years Factory
 SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for Malta Factories
  • 25 Years Factory
 SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for Malta Factories25 Years Factory
 SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for Malta Factories
  • 25 Years Factory
 SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for Malta Factories25 Years Factory
 SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for Malta Factories

Short Description:

Description It is one-component acetoxy silicone sealant with fungicide to form a durable and flexible rubber seal resistant to water, mildew and mold.   Where to use SV-618  is an excellent candidate to consider the reliable prevention of mildew formation around fixtures in high humidity and temperature areas such as bath and kitchen rooms, swimming pool, facilities and lavatories. It also has good adhesion to most common building materials e.g. glass, tiles, ceramics and fiber glass, painte...


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owing to good service, a variety of high quality products, competitive prices and efficient delivery, we enjoy a good reputation among our customers. We are an energetic company with wide market for 25 Years Factory SV-618 Acetic Glass Sealant for Malta Factories, We welcome you to inquire us by call or mail and hope to build a successful and cooperative relationship.


Description

It is one-component acetoxy silicone sealant with fungicide to form a durable and flexible rubber seal resistant to water, mildew and mold.

 

Where to use

SV-618  is an excellent candidate to consider the reliable prevention of mildew formation around fixtures in high humidity and temperature areas such as bath and kitchen rooms, swimming pool, facilities and lavatories. It also has good adhesion to most common building materials e.g. glass, tiles, ceramics and fiber glass, painted wood.

 

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. Easy to apply

3. Highly efficient and safe bactericide

4. Low VOC

5. Proven Performer

 

Technical data sheet

Technical data sheet for reference,

  Test standard 1000
Appearance ISO 11600 Have no grain, no agglomerations
Extrudability,g/ml ISO 8394 450
Tack Free Time,min ASTM C 679 20
Density,g/cm3 ISO 1183 1.0
Slump,mm ISO 7390 0
Heat weight loss,% ISO 10563 7
Ultimate Tensile Strength,MPa ISO 8339 0.4
Ultimate Elongation,% ISO 8339 150
Ultimate Shear Strength, MPa ISO 4587 N/A

 

Certification

JC/T885-2001 20LM; and GB/T1741-2007 Mildew Proofing Grade 0

 

Color

clear, black, silver gray, white

 

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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  • This is a mold making and lifecasting technique to make molds and silicone toys. We use our Y820 by brushing way.(www.szrl.net)
    Any demands, feel free to contact:
    Tel: 0086-755-89212380
    Mob: 86-18938867572
    Fax: 0086-755-89948030
    Email: hysi(at)szrl(dot)net
    Skpye: bellajiaqi



    If you cannot drain your aquarium to repair a leak from the inside, and you need to work from the outside, you have to beat hydraulic pressure.
    The way you can do it, is by patching from bottom (where your leak is) to top.
    1) Use a 2″ tape (scotch / masking / duct / whatever). See the patch in my other video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HRAjfYTesQ
    2) patch this tape with a coat or 2 of a plastic bag.
    3) put a stripe of silicone (any kind – since it’s external). Now your “bandaid” is ready.
    4) put this patch on your Leakage in a way that the dripping is chased up. You cannot completely seal since hydraulic pressure is stronger than silicone. But the silicone is strong enough to push the water flow 1″-2″ up. Just make sure you chase the leak Upwards – not downwards, and not side ways.
    5) every 20 minutes or so, you can take of your patch (the plastic bag helps here), and put a new patch, 2″ higher up (repeat steps 1-4) with a small overlap between the previous and the new silicone, so that you continue chasing upwards. If you miss (leak goes in another direction, repeat on this section, till you get it up).
    6) as you go upwards, at some point the hydraulic pressure will be low enough that your leakage stops completely. even if you are not lucky, once you reach the top water level, the water pressure is 0, and your leakage will be over.
    My leak was at the bottom front left side, and I had to work up slowly against 15″ of water (about 40cm on a 50cm deep aquarium).
    When I started this, I did’t know how it was going to turn out. In hindsight I would of course drain 1/3 of the water or 1/5 of the water – anything that is doable without taking out the fish (my initial constraint) or impacting the bio-equilibrium. Doing this would reduce pressure and essentially make it easier (it would take less stages of 2″ patching).
    As a conclusion, I can say that in any case drain your aquarium as much as you can – it will help.
    Then, if your leak is situated above the water level – work from the inside, using aquarium safe silicone, and if your leak is below that, use the method in this video.
    As this was my first external repair it doesn’t look nice, and possibly I could have tried with less silicone, or maybe I could have trimmed it afterwards. However right now I cannot afford the headace of causing a new leak just for the sake of aesthetics.

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