22 Years Factory SMP-333 Industrial silane modified polyether sealant for Hyderabad Manufacturers
Description SMP333 Industrial Silane Modified Polyether Sealant is a transparent single component, high performance, neutral curing adhesive. The product is green and does not contain toxic and harmful substances. It has good bonding ability for most substrates such as metal, ceramics, wood, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polycarbonate (PC). After curing, the surface can be coated and can be widely Used in a variety of train / bus / car and other motor vehicles, elevator cars, containers, machi...
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SMP333 Industrial Silane Modified Polyether Sealant is a transparent single component, high performance, neutral curing adhesive. The product is green and does not contain toxic and harmful substances. It has good bonding ability for most substrates such as metal, ceramics, wood, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polycarbonate (PC). After curing, the surface can be coated and can be widely Used in a variety of train / bus / car and other motor vehicles, elevator cars, containers, machinery and equipment, electrical equipment and other areas of the adhesive seal.
1.Environmental protection products: fast curing, low VOC, non-toxic and tasteless, non-polluting substrate, no corrosion.
2.The surface can be painted: the surface can be sprayed after the surface coating paint color.
3.Good operability: one-component, easy to operate, in the 4 ℃ ~ 40 ℃ temperature range has a good extrudability, with a plastic gun extrusion can be directly.
4.Excellent adhesion: with metal, ceramics, wood and PVC, PC, PA and other materials with excellent adhesion, without the use of primer.
5.Excellent weather resistance, aging resistance, dielectric and mechanical properties.
Where to use
Train / bus / car and other motor vehicle body, interior, floor, air conditioning and other systems of bonding and sealing.
Mobile phones, tablet PCs, navigators, digital cameras and other electrical equipment bonding seal.
Containers, elevator cars, ventilation equipment, such as seams sealed.
Electronics, machinery, ships and other areas of the adhesive seal.
Other suitable for this product in the field of bonding and sealing purposes.
Technical data sheet
|Test standard||Test project||Unit||value|
|coloer||Black, white, gray|
|GB13477||surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||15-60|
|GB528||Elongation at break||%||600|
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 500ml in sausage *20 per box
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Check out our blog for clickable links to the items below!
Things you will need:
- Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
- Above Ground Pool Pump
- Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
- Hole Saw with Arbor
- Plunger Valves
- Pool Outlet
- 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
- 1 Strainer Nut
Other things you will need for maintenance:
- Chlorine Tablets
- Floating Pool Dispenser
- Water Testing Kit
Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.