21 Years Factory SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant Wholesale to Rwanda

21 Years Factory
 SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant Wholesale to Rwanda
  • 21 Years Factory
 SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant Wholesale to Rwanda21 Years Factory
 SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant Wholesale to Rwanda
  • 21 Years Factory
 SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant Wholesale to Rwanda21 Years Factory
 SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant Wholesale to Rwanda

Short Description:

Description SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant is a one-component, low modulus, neutral curing adhesive. For most of the stone, ceramic and cement components, can produce excellent adhesion   Key Features (1) easy to use: can be used at any time out; (2) excellent thixotropy and extrusion, at any temperature (-40 ℃ to 100 ℃) can be extruded; (3) good adhesion, the stone, ceramics and cement components and other building materials with excellent adhesion properties; no poll...


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With our leading technology as well as our spirit of innovation,mutual cooperation, benefits and development, we will build a prosperous future together with your esteemed company for 21 Years Factory SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant Wholesale to Rwanda, Inspired by the rapid developing market of the fast food and beverage consumables all over the world , We are looking forward to working with partners /clients to make success together .


Description

SV-GT2000 High-speed rail subway silicone sealant is a one-component, low modulus, neutral curing adhesive. For most of the stone, ceramic and cement components, can produce excellent adhesion

 

Key Features

(1) easy to use: can be used at any time out;

(2) excellent thixotropy and extrusion, at any temperature (-40 ℃ to 100 ℃) can be extruded;

(3) good adhesion, the stone, ceramics and cement components and other building materials with excellent adhesion properties; no pollution of the porous material;

(4) excellent weather resistance, aging performance, excellent tensile and compression resilience, can carry ± 30% displacement capacity;

(5) neutral curing, stone, cement and other building materials without corrosive, to overcome the shortcomings of acid corrosion material.

(6) base modulus: passive deformation occurs when the role of moderate stress on the concrete substrate to ensure that the concrete surface is not destroyed;

(7) high elasticity high recovery capacity: can be repeated from the seams with the movement, fast response fast response, permanent deformation of small.

 

Basic Application

1.For high-speed rail track, airport runway, highway irrigation joints sealed, can withstand large displacement;

2.Can also be used for other concrete pavement sealing, subway engineering, tunnels, bridges and other projects sealed.

 

Technical data sheet

Test project

Unit value
surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) min ≤60
Sagging(70℃) vertical mm ≤3
Horizontal mm 0
Mass loss rate / ≤5%
Elastic recovery rate / ≥80%
100% tensile strength 23℃ MPa ≤0.3
-20℃ MPa ≤0.3
tensile strength 23℃ MPa ≥1.0
-20℃ MPa ≤2.0
168 h after thermal aging (80 ℃) MPa ≥0.8
168 h after alkali treatment MPa ≥0.8
Breaking elongation 23℃ / ≥800%
-20℃ / ≥600%
168 h after thermal aging (80 ℃) / ≥600%
168 h after alkali treatment / ≥600%
Bond strength 23℃ / No damaging
-20℃ / No damaging
168 h after thermal aging (80 ℃) / No damaging
96 h after immersion / No damaging
         

 

 

Color

Black, White, Gray

 

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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  • Table of Contents:
    0:00 – 1:40 : Removing carpet stuff from floor
    1:40 – 6:00 : Attaching your subfloor RIGHT, and marking your joists
    6:16 – 7:51 : Applying Primer
    7:51 – 8:24 : Filling cracks/holes
    8:24 – 11:09 : Applying self-leveler
    11:09 – 18:29 : Making tiles out of slabs
    18:29 – 24:57 : pushing one tile into place
    24:58 – 27:29 : doing some orbital sanding
    27:29 – 29:16 : beware of the sealer coat!
    29:16 – 30:12 : doing some inter-coat screening
    30:12 – 31:34 : routing a floor duct
    31:34 – end: review of finished product as I, non-expert, installed it.

    This is a mediocre walkthrough but it should give you a good idea of how the process goes.
    Note: this won’t work in all mobile homes. A while back, mobile homes had very little oversight in their creation, so manufacturers were more free to do as they pleased. Typically though not always, this lead to lower quality construction which *might not support the additional 6+ lbs per square foot to the flooring system!

    Anyways
    You’ll want to look up some more info about using a T-Bar to apply hardwood flooring coating products, as well as information about sanding/refinishing a hardwood floor.

    If you have anything you’d like me to add or link you to, then please let me know what I can do.

    Tools required for the job:
    2x sawhorses (free)
    item-moving ‘dolly’ (20 bucks)
    gloves to protect hands from repeated abuse (2 bucks)
    2x smooth faced hammers (cheap)
    marshalltown concrete form pry bar for pushing slabs against wall studs (60 bucks used amazon)
    about 2 quarts of wood filler putty. Recommended to check out: latex wood floor filler ( try ebay) (~30 bucks)
    7 gallons of oil based polyurethane floor coating (USD ~250 in california)
    2x skillsaws (one free other 25 bucks) w 2x carbide blades (~30 bucks)
    Good router: 235 dollars! :(
    Tongue & Groove bits (30 bucks ebay)
    2.5″ flush trim router bit (17 bucks ebay – not found in Blowes)
    2x clamps ~$10
    aluminum angle stuff for router guide/straight lines (freeish)
    Mechanical carpenter’s pencil: 3 bucks
    Chalk line w/chalk: 25 cents @ discount isle of hardware store. Since raised to 5 bucks
    2x 12″ framing squares (7.00×2 @ home depot)
    drywall square (11.00 @ home depot)
    razor for scraping off stuff ($1 @ garage sale)
    plastic shims for holding floorboards in place temparily (borrowed : free)
    17 point 3 inch galvanized screws x ~10 lbs. ~20 bucks ebay.
    17 point 5 inch galvanized screws x ~1 lb ~2 bucks ebay
    tape measure: $2 @ walgreens
    Jigsaw: borrowed
    Superglue x10 bottles: $4 @ harbor freight
    Underlayment: $.25-.5 per square foot. Possibly unnecessary, but it really did seem to help with impact noise.
    Impact driver: $75-250, depending on how nice you want it.
    drill or chuck for impact driver: $15+.
    Aluminum straight edge (~8ft) for checking floor levels: free on craigslist. sorry. good luck with that.
    Mixing attachment for masonry (~10 @ hardware store?, $1@ garage sale)
    Self leveling concrete ($28-33/ 50 lb bag) (I used 9 bags FOCCKK!)
    Drum sander rental: 60/day + sandpaper (40-140 bucks)
    Orbital sander rental: 50/day + sandpaper (20-80 bucks)
    5 gallons primer: free on craigslist
    Orbital polishing thingy + clamp + 150 grit screen: 25 + 1 + 5 (garage sale x2, big box store)

    Steps:
    Remove existing floorcovering (depends what you have)
    Attach subfloor using REAL fasteners like screws or ring shank nails in order to mitigate squeaks
    Mark where your floor joists and vents are on the wall. Mark at a height slightly higher than your slabs will be.
    Seal up any holes or gaps in the floor
    make the floor essentially waterproof and sterile using cleaning agents + sealer/primer.
    mark where the low spots on the floor are.
    Apply a material which will fill those low spots (IE self leveling concrete)
    cut your slabs and load them into your rooms. after each room is laid out, smush the tiles in as close as you can, countersink your screw holes @ locations above the joists, and screw the slabs down into your joists. Move onto the next rooms until your entire floor areas are covered.
    Rent a drum sander & sand the floors along the grain of the wood. If you’ve got heavy scratches in some areas, you’ll have to star with a pretty low grit. Always work your way up to 80-120 grit.
    Rent an orbital sander and orbit your whole floor. First attack your edges where paint still remains, then go over the whole floor, making sure to get rid of any sanding marks (but hey, if you got sanding marks, you can call it “character”)
    Apply polyurethane floor coating.
    Let it cure for the time on the back of the can (usually like 2 weeks) and move back into your house!



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