20 Years Factory SV-8890 Two-component Silicone Structural Glazing Sealant Supply to Thailand
Description SV8890 is neutral curing, designed for glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal designed silicone sealant structure, excellent bonding performance of structure and the weathering resistance, after artificial accelerated weathering test, various physical and chemical properties have no obvious change in the sealant. When using, SV8890 with dedicated two-component glue machine constructi...
With the "Client-Oriented" business philosophy, a rigorous quality control system, advanced manufacturing equipment and a strong R&D team, we always provide high quality products, excellent services and competitive prices for 20 Years Factory SV-8890 Two-component Silicone Structural Glazing Sealant Supply to Thailand, Your inquiry will be highly welcomed and a win-win prosperous development are what we are expecting.
SV8890 is neutral curing, designed for glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal designed silicone sealant structure, excellent bonding performance of structure and the weathering resistance, after artificial accelerated weathering test, various physical and chemical properties have no obvious change in the sealant. When using, SV8890 with dedicated two-component glue machine construction, two kinds of components in accordance with the provisions, mixing ratio after curing form elastomer.
1. None sag
2. Adjustable working time
3. Excellent adhesion to most building substrates
4. High bonding strength and modulus
6. Silicone durability
1.Glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal;
2.Insulating Glass of the second seal
3.Many other building and industrial applications
Technical data sheet
|Flow, sagging or vertical flow||mm||0|
|surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||40-60|
|Durometer Hardness||Shore A||20-60|
|At 23 ℃ maximum tensile strength elongation||%||≥100|
|Tensile strength（flooding – ultraviolet）||Mpa||0.68|
|Bond damage area||%||5|
|Thermal aging（thermal weight loss）||%||≤5|
Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black
1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)
2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Over time I’ve been noticing small cracks appearing on my Keystone Cougar fifth wheel trailers plastic fenders. The cracking is taking place around the screws holding the fenders to the trailer sidewall. It started off with one or two but is slowly progressing to more and more every year. If this kept up and left unchecked, I fear one day I’d lose a fender during travel.
So, I decided this summer to pull the fenders off and see what could be done to beef them up, stop the cracking and prevent a full on failure. A reader recently contacted me via email with some insight to the problem. He believes the cracking might be caused by the indented area for the screws not being flush with the backside.
At the end of your shelf repair video, you showed a shot of the cracks around the mounting screws for the fenders.
I just removed the fenders from my trailer so I could caulk the steel wheel tubs to the side of the trailer.
Upon reinstallation of the plastic fenders, I noticed that the indents for the screws are not flush with the back side.
If you over tighten the screws it is going to crack the plastic.
There is room enough to put a washer between the fender and the sidewall.
You might be able to epoxy a washer on the back side to reinforce the plastic.
I enjoy your videos.
I elected to take Arthur’s advice and use some washers on the back side of the fender behind the screw holes. Instead of using epoxy I chose to use SikaFlex 291 sealant. I embedded the washer into the Sikaflex and then applied a healthy layer of it all around the indented plastic area. On the front side of the fender behind each screw, I added a small rubber grommet.
Time will tell but I believe the repair and modifications made should help extend the life of my fenders and at least prevent a catastrophic failure at speed on a highway. If not, thanks to thunderbird97 on YouTube for pointing me to a website to order up a replacement set.
“thunderbird97 - Ray here is a website I ordered my fender skirts in case you need it, https://www.icondirect.com , the only difference was old ones were thicker, new ones are made out of better material, holes matched up perfect. Here is the Canada site www.icondirect.ca”
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Terry talks about Tyvek which is a rain shield that protects the house from moisture. When water goes through a homes siding, it hypothetically hits this barrier and runs down to the ground. Terry further notes that the rain shield does not provide air sealing; instead, all the air sealing is already taking place behind the Tyvek in the polyisocyanurate foam, OSB, and behind the OSB where the spray foam has been applied.
Furring strips are put over the Tyvek, so that when siding is placed over it, there is an air space between the siding and rain shield. In other words, air can circulate beneath the siding to dry it out if it gets too wet thus avoiding a possibility of deterioration. The window trim is then put up on top of the furring strips. A bug screen is then applied on top and bottom of the furring strips and Tyvek. The siding, fiber cement Hardie board, is finally put on. The practice of putting on furring strips on top of the rain shield is different from traditional building where this step is skipped; instead, the siding is put right on top of the rain shield.