15 Years Factory wholesale SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Sierra Leone Importers
Description SV – 9300 Fire resistant silicone sealant is a one-component, neutral-curing silicone sealant exhibiting superior performance in applications where sealing openings in walls and floors are needed to control the spread of fire, smoke, toxic gasses, and water during fire conditions. Where to use It is an ideal material designed for use in fire-stop systems for through penetrations and joints. This product excels in applications where greater water resistance is required e.g. ...
We emphasize development and introduce new products into the market every year for 15 Years Factory wholesale SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Sierra Leone Importers, We sincerely welcome you come to visit us. Hope we have good cooperation in the future.
SV – 9300 Fire resistant silicone sealant is a one-component, neutral-curing silicone sealant exhibiting superior performance in applications where sealing openings in walls and floors are needed to control the spread of fire, smoke, toxic gasses, and water during fire conditions.
Where to use
It is an ideal material designed for use in fire-stop systems for through penetrations and joints. This product excels in applications where greater water resistance is required e.g. curtain wall, building facade, expansion/pipe and cable joints.
1. 100% silicone
2. Excellent weatherproofing and waterproofing
3. Low gas transmission rate
4. With highly efficient redundant
1.Building fire seam sealed
Technical data sheet
|Test standard||Test project||Unit||value|
|GB13477||Flow, sagging or vertical flow||mm||0|
|GB13477||surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||40-60|
|Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃，50%R.H.|
|GB/T 531.1-2008||Durometer Hardness||Shore A||20-60|
|GB13477||60% elongation of cementation||no damaging|
|GB/T 24267||Sealant level||20HM|
|GB/T 24267||Fire prevention level||FV-0|
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Hi, it’s Mark Bossert from Top Local Lead Generation. We’re here with Mr. David Fairbairn of Fairbairn Inspections in Vancouver talking about mold. How’re you doing today David?
David: Oh, Mark I’m ready to talk about mold today.
David: I hope you’re looking forward to some mold.
Mark: Mold sandwich. So the question you wanted and this is funnily enough, the question I asked you last week, is why is there mold on my windows?
David: Yeah, so we’re going to talk about mold on windows and so this is probably one of the most asked questions and yourself included, I think we were chatting before the hangout and you we’re actually saying, I’ve got some mold on my windows, what’s going on? So I said o.k., let’s do a talk on this and explain what’s actually happening. I’d like to maybe share the screen Mark, is that o.k.?
David: o.k. I just going to pull up some photos, I actually have some photos from various places, so I’m just going to put it up on the full screen here. I don’t know if you can see that. . .
Mark: I can see that.
David: o.k. so we’ve got some mold on this window here. Now this is a photo of probably you’ve seen a lot of houses like this, so what’s going on with this? So this kind of mold can look kind of scary when you first pull back your drapes and you look at your window and you’re going, first of all its black and anybody who’s watched TV or read any articles on home improvement, you’re going to hear toxic black mold so I get asked this a lot. Is this black mold? The first thing I want to get out of the way is black mold is the wrong name for it. They are talking about a certain species of mold called Stachybotrys and it’s not always black, it can come in different colours, it can come in blue so I want to get out of the way, you actually can’t tell what kind of mold you have unless you actually take it to a lab and sample it. So we know what common types of mold we have indoors so we can usually guess it’s between three different species but if ever have any doubts just as a disclaimer, always call a certified mold specialist who can come out and assist you with your problem before you go jumping to any conclusions. So anyways, we’ve got this mold growing on a window here so basically what we have is, if you think about a house you’ve got a window which is going to be probably the coldest spot on your wall. So first of all it’s on your exterior walls, second of all, a lot of heat loss through windows, right? So this one here, we’ve got an aluminum window frame, I believe it’s an aluminum frame window so it’s probably a chilly day and we’ve got a high indoor either temperature and or humidity, right. So mold on windows, I’m going to go ahead right away and say 99% of the mold on windows problems is going to be coming from indoor humidity so you’ve got a lot of areas where humidity and moisture can originate in homes and the number one is going to be your shower, you’re showers can generate a lot of moisture and cooking, if you’re cooking pasta, you’re going to be sending a lot of water and steam and vapour into the air and your moisture floating around the air is going to settle on the coldest spot just like when you take a can of coke out of the fridge and it gets frosty, right so that’s the same concept here; we’re creating condensation and windows are hot spots for condensation because they’re so cold. So were looking at that and basically the first step you can do to prevent moisture on windows is to ventilate your house properly so this is point one, you’re going to ventilate the house properly. So how is the moisture getting out of the house? Is it clinging to the windows or is it being ventilated properly, so let’s look at a few options for ventilating the home.
So the most obvious option here is we’ve got a bathroom fan and unless you live in a kind of an older house that’s never been updated or you’ve never renovated the bathroom, you probably have one of these in your home and basically we’re going to want to make sure that that fan is running not only when you have a shower but in some cases we’re going to want to have it run for quite a while after you have the shower.
In this video I show two ways to patch a hole in a hollow core door.
Expanding Foam Stuff→ https://amzn.to/2dMYsV5
Caulking Gun (pricey one)→ https://amzn.to/2eg94xB
-The reason I use adhesive caulk and not drywall mud is because acrylic caulk is flexible and will not crack later on.
-If you are spraying in the foam put something below the door so that if it floods out it will not drip on the carpet as it dries. Or tape one side of the opening of a plastic shopping bag [so it hangs in an open position] right below the door hole so that if it drips out, it drips into the bag.
-If you are patching a large hole, take the door off and lay it flat. It will help the foam not run down the door. Also you will want to use an autobody filler like Bondo to coat very large holes, acrylic latex may be too hard to work with.
The camera I use: https://amzn.to/2ec3wTx
My backup camera: https://amzn.to/2edXF1e
Super handy tripod: https://amzn.to/2dfVRTq
Wireless Mic I sometimes use: https://amzn.to/2dAgquC
Business Inquiries: please email:
Adam Hill – DIY
PO Box 95278
South Jordan UT 84095
This video is only for entertainment purposes. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or from the information in this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and is to be used at the discretion of the end user/viewer and not AdamDIY and or Adam Hill. If you are uncertain about any step of the process, or feel unsure about your skill level, seek a more authoritative source.