14 Years Factory wholesale SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass for Vancouver Factories

14 Years Factory wholesale
 SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass for Vancouver Factories
  • 14 Years Factory wholesale
 SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass for Vancouver Factories14 Years Factory wholesale
 SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass for Vancouver Factories

Short Description:

Description SV – 8000 two-component polyurethane insulating glass sealant is a neutral cure, mainly used for the insulating glass of the second seal. Product formulation to use its performance with high modulus, high strength, to meet the requirements of insulating glass assembly.   Where to use It is a two-component PU sealant that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.   Key Fe...


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We are convinced that with joint efforts, the business between us will bring us mutual benefits. We can assure you product quality and competitive price for 14 Years Factory wholesale SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass for Vancouver Factories, We sincerely welcome overseas customers to consult for the long-term cooperation and the mutual development.


Description

SV – 8000 two-component polyurethane insulating glass sealant is a neutral cure, mainly used for the insulating glass of the second seal. Product formulation to use its performance with high modulus, high strength, to meet the requirements of insulating glass assembly.

 

Where to use

It is a two-component PU sealant that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.

 

Key Features

1. High Modulus

2. UV resistance

3. Low vapor and gas transmission

4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass

 

Technical data sheet

Test project standards Value
Sagging degree (mm) ≤3 0
Operating time ≥30 30
Thermal weight loss(%) ≤10 2
Durometer Hardness Shore A 20-80 42
tensile propcrties(MPA) >0.4 1.0
Bond damage area(5%) ≤5 0

 

Certification

GB-24266-2009;

 

Color

Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black

 

Package

1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)

2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

 

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  • Check out our blog for clickable links to the items below!
    Blog- https://www.heywandererblog.com/2017/06/diy-stock-tank-pool-everything-you-need.html
    Instagram- www.instagram.com/heywanderer
    E-mail- heywanderer@gmail.com

    Things you will need:
    - Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
    - Above Ground Pool Pump
    - Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
    - Hole Saw with Arbor
    - Plunger Valves
    - Pool Outlet
    - 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
    - 1 Strainer Nut

    Other things you will need for maintenance:
    - Chlorine Tablets
    - Floating Pool Dispenser
    - Water Testing Kit

    Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
    Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
    Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
    Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
    Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
    Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
    Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.



    How to create a concrete leaf casting, for decoration at home or in your garden. It’s as easy as making mud pies with Master Gardener A. Tice as she demonstrates how to create various leaf decorations. Background music: “Let It Whip” by Dazz Band— so, Let It Whip with your OWN concrete leaf design! Have Fun and create your own using a variety of leaf shapes!

    Materials: Tools:
    20# concrete vinyl patch old trowel
    concrete bonding adhesive 5 Gal bucket
    Liquid Cement Color (concrete dye-optional) several small buckets
    40# play sand large plastic “Rubbermaid”
    plastic wrap tub
    old table old paint brush
    water dust mask
    large trash bags or plastic drop cloth vinyl (rubber) gloves
    masking tape toothpicks
    several leaves with few/no holes or tatters. wire cutters
    18 G wire or PVC pipe pieces for mounting. pliers
    Big Leaf option: concrete reinforcing fibers

    ***Leaves can wilt quickly, so if possible, cut them just before and keep them in a bucket of water until you are ready.

    NOTE: some sources use 3 parts fine #1 sand to 1 part Portland cement instead of the vinyl concrete patch. I like the “patch” better as it’s easier and smoother.

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