13 Years manufacturer SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer

13 Years manufacturer
 SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer
  • 13 Years manufacturer
 SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer13 Years manufacturer
 SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer
  • 13 Years manufacturer
 SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer13 Years manufacturer
 SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer
  • 13 Years manufacturer
 SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer13 Years manufacturer
 SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer

Short Description:

Description SV-666 neutral silicone sealant is a neutral curing glue single component, the modulus of the. It is specially designed for windows and doors caulking sealing general plastic doors and windows. It has good adhesion to glass and aluminum alloy, and has no corrosion.   Where  to use It is fit for multiple purpose sealing and bonding applications to form a silicone rubber adhering to adjacent substrates e.g. glass, ceramic, tile, wood and metal.   Key Features 1. 100% silicone 2. Eas...


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"Based on domestic market and expand overseas business" is our development strategy for 13 Years manufacturer SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant for Portland Manufacturer, Standing still today and looking into the future, we sincerely welcome customers all over the world to cooperate with us.


Description

SV-666 neutral silicone sealant is a neutral curing glue single component, the modulus of the. It is specially designed for windows and doors caulking sealing general plastic doors and windows. It has good adhesion to glass and aluminum alloy, and has no corrosion.

 

Where  to use

It is fit for multiple purpose sealing and bonding applications to form a silicone rubber adhering to adjacent substrates e.g. glass, ceramic, tile, wood and metal.

 

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. Easy to use

3. Waterproofing and weatherproofing

4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

5. 12.5% movement capability

 

Technical data sheet

Test standard Test project Unit value
Before curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB13477 Flow, sagging or vertical flow mm 0
GB13477 surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) min 30

GB13477

Operating time min 20
  Curing time(25℃,50%R.H.) Day 7-14
Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃,50%R.H.
GB13477 Durometer Hardness Shore A 28
GB13477 The ultimate tensile strength Mpa 0.7
  Temperature stability -50~+150
GB13477 Movement capability % 12.5

 

Certification

JC/T881-2001 12.5E;GB/T14683-2003 12.5E

 

Color

Black,White,Gray

 

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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  • If you cannot drain your aquarium to repair a leak from the inside, and you need to work from the outside, you have to beat hydraulic pressure.
    The way you can do it, is by patching from bottom (where your leak is) to top.
    1) Use a 2″ tape (scotch / masking / duct / whatever). See the patch in my other video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HRAjfYTesQ
    2) patch this tape with a coat or 2 of a plastic bag.
    3) put a stripe of silicone (any kind – since it’s external). Now your “bandaid” is ready.
    4) put this patch on your Leakage in a way that the dripping is chased up. You cannot completely seal since hydraulic pressure is stronger than silicone. But the silicone is strong enough to push the water flow 1″-2″ up. Just make sure you chase the leak Upwards – not downwards, and not side ways.
    5) every 20 minutes or so, you can take of your patch (the plastic bag helps here), and put a new patch, 2″ higher up (repeat steps 1-4) with a small overlap between the previous and the new silicone, so that you continue chasing upwards. If you miss (leak goes in another direction, repeat on this section, till you get it up).
    6) as you go upwards, at some point the hydraulic pressure will be low enough that your leakage stops completely. even if you are not lucky, once you reach the top water level, the water pressure is 0, and your leakage will be over.
    My leak was at the bottom front left side, and I had to work up slowly against 15″ of water (about 40cm on a 50cm deep aquarium).
    When I started this, I did’t know how it was going to turn out. In hindsight I would of course drain 1/3 of the water or 1/5 of the water – anything that is doable without taking out the fish (my initial constraint) or impacting the bio-equilibrium. Doing this would reduce pressure and essentially make it easier (it would take less stages of 2″ patching).
    As a conclusion, I can say that in any case drain your aquarium as much as you can – it will help.
    Then, if your leak is situated above the water level – work from the inside, using aquarium safe silicone, and if your leak is below that, use the method in this video.
    As this was my first external repair it doesn’t look nice, and possibly I could have tried with less silicone, or maybe I could have trimmed it afterwards. However right now I cannot afford the headace of causing a new leak just for the sake of aesthetics.



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