12 Years Manufacturer Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B to Manila Importers
Description SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion. Key Features 1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive 2. Fast cure at room temperature,...
Assume full responsibility to meet all demands of our clients; achieve continuous advancements by promoting the growth of our clients; become the final permanent cooperative partner of clients and maximize the interests of clients for 12 Years Manufacturer Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B to Manila Importers, We are also constantly looking to establish relationship with new suppliers to provide innovative and smart solution to our valued customers.
SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion.
1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive
2. Fast cure at room temperature, <40 min for reaching a tack-free status under standard environment (STD: 23℃, 50% humidity)
3. Mix ratio of 1:1 by volume or by weight
4. Good mechanical property
5. Bonds a wide variety of building materials
6. Good waterproofing and chemical resistance
1, the external walls of stone material, ceramic and other hang bond;
2, concrete, ceramics, stone, wood and other prefabricated split, bonding and jointing;
3, concrete, stone and so on crack repair;
4, the structure of the localization, anchor, reinforcement and reinforcement.
Technical data sheet
The following data is for reference only and is not recommended for the specification
|Shear strength||Stainless steel-stainless steel/Standard conditions||≥18||JC887-2001|
|Pressure shear strength||Stone-stone/ Standard conditions||≥12|
|Stone-stone/ The freeze-thaw cycle 50 times||≥10|
|Stone – stainless steel/ Standard conditions||≥12|
|Standard conditions：Temperature=23℃，relative humidity=50%，48 hours curing|
|Effective operating time(23℃)||N/A||N/A||20min|
Part A-Grey Paste/Part B-White Paste
9kg/9kg per unit and 15kg/15kg per unit
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
What to look for in shoes to help with plantar fasciitis
If you have sharp morning heel or arch pain that tend to return in the afternoon, you might just have plantar fasciitis. Therefore, you need to formulate a plan to correct your walking gait and provide the arch support your feet require. Finding the best shoes should top your list of vital things to do.
Begin by taking a look at your feet: are you wearing shoes with good arch support? It’s quite possible that those old sneakers (even the wrong type of new shoes) may be worsening any foot and heel pain you’re experiencing. And in a perfect world, you’d need to stay off your feet to let your feet heal properly. But most of us cannot do that. So you have to concentrate on your shoes to help with your heel pain.
When you look at your shoes, do you notice obvious wear patterns on the heels of the out-sole? How about the arch supports fitted on the inside of your shoe? Did you even realize it was there? If not, you probably don’t have enough support and your stride is suffering as a result, causing you to over-pronate or over-supinate.
In general, you should pay attention to 3 things in your shoe; the sole, arch support, and toe box.
When considering the shoe’s soles, podiatrists say a shoe that bends too easily should be avoided if you have plantar fasciitis. The outer sole of your shoe should be stiff. This is especially important if you will be doing a lot of standing or walking at work. How stiff? Hold the two ends of your shoe for plantar fasciitis and try to twist it: it shouldn’t move very much at all. A good mid-sole is thick and well padded. Cushioning is important here because rigid arch supports can aggravate plantar fasciitis symptoms. However, reinforcement of the arch is also necessary, so it’s a fine balance.
With arch support, podiatrists recommend to try a few different models on to find shoes that have the right amount of arch support for your foot. The best shoes for plantar fasciitis should have a firm heel counter that’s a little bit elevated. This not only keeps your foot in alignment but also reduces the load on your Achilles tendon by keeping your foot slightly flexed away from your shin. Since the Achilles tendon attaches to the heel bone just like the plantar fascia, anything that decrease the pressure on the Achilles tendon also minimizes chances for developing plantar fasciitis.
Regarding the toe box, your shoe must be wide enough to allow the rear and middle parts of your foot to roll over the forefoot, yet sturdy and inflexible enough to prevent a lot of toe extension of your big toe. To check flexibility, hold the shoe at both ends and try to fold it up. The toe-box should bend just a little, but the rest of the shoe shouldn’t budge.
To help with your morning pain when you get out of bed, podiatrists suggest you use a night splint. The Stretch-Away Plantar Fasciitis Night Brace is not a bulky cast-like splint. Instead, it’s a comfortable way to easily stretch your plantar fascia while you sleep. It is also inexpensive and easy to use, and gives you great results, avoiding the heel and arch pain when you take your first morning steps.
How to build the cornhole toss game. In the video, Pete shows the materials needed, how to build the platforms, add the legs, and drill the hole. DIY Pete also shows how to paint a cornhole board and add a design to it.
For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:
Download Plans: https://www.gumroad.com/l/cornholetoss
*Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!
Power Drill – https://amzn.to/1OxMfnt
12″ Miter Saw – https://amzn.to/1VUVo8s
Kreg Jig (optional) – https://amzn.to/1X7Bd9H
Orbital Sander – https://amzn.to/1VUVNYy
Jig Saw – https://amzn.to/1VUXkhn
Optional 6″ Hole Saw – https://amzn.to/1VUXlBP
First, you’ll want to build the frame for the cornhole platform. Lay the 2×4’s on a flat surface and connect the boards using 2 1/2 wood screws. I’d recommend drilling pilot holes prior to using the screws to eliminate the chances of wood splitting. Use 2 screws in each corner. More info and blueprints in downloadable plans.
Use 1 1/2 inch long wood screws to attach the 1/2 inch plywood to the 2×4 frame. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting when the screw goes in. Place screws around the perimeter of the board spaced about every 8-10 inches. Countersink the screws a bit so you can fill them in with wood putty in a later step.
Cut the legs for each platform to 12 inches. Later, we’ll angle the boards and shorten them just a bit. First, measure 1 3/4 inches down from the top of the board and make a mark. Second, measure 1 3/4 inches from the side. You’ll drill a 3/8 inch hole where the center marks are. Use a compass to draw an arc which will round off the top so the legs will be able to fold.
The rounded side should be flush with the corner. Then use a 3/8 inch drill bit to go through the hole in the leg and to create a new hole in the 2×4 frame behind it. Learn more in downloadable plans.
Use 4 1/2 inch long 3/8 inch carriage bolts to attach the leg. Put a washer and wing nut on the inside of the leg. Check to make sure they open and close easily. You can use an orbital sander to sand down high spots on the arc in case the leg isn’t folding easily.
Put the cornhole table on a large and flat table. Shove a box underneath and check to ensure the back board is at 12″ above the surface. Once this has been done, slide the corner of the platform over the edge of your surface (Video above helps describe this process). Cut the angle on the miter saw. It will typically range between 5 to 10 degrees. Here is a photo of the legs with the angle cut.
The next step is to cut the hole for the platform. I had to re-take a few photos which is why you see a hole in the boards and paint in the previous photos. Measure 9″ down from the top of the board. Then measure 12″ from the side of the board. Where both marks meet is where you will want to mark for the center of the hole. Then use a 6″ hole saw to cut the hole. If you do not have a hole saw you can use a jig saw. Make sure to hand sand the edges of the hole after cutting.
Do a google search for all sorts of ideas on how to customize your boards. I used masking tape to create a 1 1/4 inch border and an arrow. Paint the boards using a brush or roller. I used latex paint because it has low VOC (fumes) and is durable. I used a stencil to paint on a Nebraska Huskers design. You can order custom stencils and NCAA licensed decals from companies like decalsextremeonline.com and vinyldisorder.com.
Looking for more DIY videos? Be sure to check out our channel and subscribe for updates! We post a weekly tutorial every Thursday.
Looking for woodworking, concrete working, and other DIY projects plans to follow? You can download plans for free at https://gumroad.com/DIYPETE
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715
Download the plans at: https://www.gumroad.com/l/cornholetoss