10 Years Manufacturer SV-900 Industrial MS polymer silicone sealant Export to Johor
Description It is one component, primer less, can be painted, high quality joint sealant based on MS polymer technology, ideal for all sealing and boding on all materials. It is solvent free, environmental protection product. Where to use Sealing and bonding in housing area, bus, train, elevator, air conditioner, ventilation equipment. Used for installing fixed panel frame, windowsill threshold, and suitable for sealing on all materials surface, like painted metal, glass, wood, concret...
Our products are widely recognized and trusted by users and can meet continuously developing economic and social needs for 10 Years Manufacturer SV-900 Industrial MS polymer silicone sealant Export to Johor, We warmly welcome merchants from home and abroad to call us and establish business relationship with us, and we will do our best to serve you.
It is one component, primer less, can be painted, high quality joint sealant based on MS polymer technology, ideal for all sealing and boding on all materials. It is solvent free, environmental protection product.
Where to use
Sealing and bonding in housing area, bus, train, elevator, air conditioner, ventilation equipment. Used for installing fixed panel frame, windowsill threshold, and suitable for sealing on all materials surface, like painted metal, glass, wood, concrete, marble, natural stone, granite, bricks, mirrors, aluminum, steel, lead, zinc, common plastics, polystyrene, polyurethane and so on. Sealing the joint of ceiling, timber, gaps of water pipe, gutter on roofs, moved rooms, container, marine. Apply for interior and exterior family decoration, like floor adhesive systems, particular for laying floor tiles, suitable for kitchen, bathroom.
1. Paint able
2. Sealing most materials
3. Excellent adhesion
Technical data sheet
|Test standard||Test project||Unit||value|
|GB13477||Flow, sagging or vertical flow||mm||0|
|GB13477||surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.）||min||30|
|Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.14days after curing——25℃，50%R.H.|
|GB13477||Durometer Hardness||Shore A||32-38|
|GB13477||The ultimate tensile strength||Mpa||2.5|
|GB13477||elongation at break||%||400|
White, black, grey
300ml plastic cartridges
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
https://www.VideoJoeKnows.com Caulking in a toilet: what type of caulking should I use, as I need to make sure I get the right one. You can’t use just any regular caulking to caulk in a toilet, or you’ll be asking for problems. Caulking in a toilet is pretty easy, if you know how….& it starts by using the right kind of caulking. Don’t blow it now, as your toilet install is almost done…..all you got left to do is caulk it in, with the right stuff. Hey “joe”….what say you?
You can view photos of the porch that were taken March, 2013.
It’s been almost 2 years, & this faux application has held up well to both weather & daily use.
Think of this project as being like a texture paint application using a mix of vinyl concrete patcher & dye.
Materials I Used:
- Dust mask & gloves
- Mixing buckets & spatulas/scrappers
- Paint brushes (One extra soft bristle brush for cleaning off faux bricks/stone after peeling up tape).
- Paint Stripper
- Heavy duty power washer
- Vinyl concrete patcher (this was the only type of concrete mix used for entire project)
- Cement dye (Red, Buff, & Charcoal)
- 1/2″ masking tape ( I found this tape at an auto body repair shop).
- Concrete bonding agent
- Concrete sealer
- Heavy duty exterior white paint for the foundation & porch posts.
- Apply paint stripper to loosen old paint on porch & then remove all old paint w/ a heavy duty power washer (I rented mine at Home Depot’s tool rental).
- After porch is clean & dry apply the concrete bonding agent. Allow it to dry according to instructions on bottle.
- The first layer will become the color/texture of your faux grout lines. If you have a cement surface that is in good condition I would clean it, apply bonding agent, & after it is dry tape out the pattern for your brick or stone layer. In other words, your original surface will become your grout lines. If you have any cracks or slight dips you can repair them w/ this first layer application of vinyl concrete patcher. Vinyl patcher is stronger than regular cement & will maintain its strength w/ a layer spread as thin as 1/16″ thick(my personal experience w/ this product). Mix Vinyl patcher w/ water (follow directions on bag). The natural color of this product is light grey(or could also be white..so read the bag before you buy). No need to dye this first layer if you like its natural color for your grout..I didn’t dye mine. Apply a thin, smooth, flat layer, & allow to dry. Once dry, if you accidentally have any spots that are too high or pointy you can file them down w/ a cement grinder…but, overall, it may not be necessary since you should be able to blend in slightly high or pointy spots w/ your next layer of faux brick/stone.
- Tape out any pattern you like.
- Mix some vinyl patcher w/ whatever color dye you like. This will vary depending on what kind of stone/brick design you want on your porch. For example, I mixed one bucket of red dye & a separate bucket of buff dye for my bricks. I then scraped on a thin layer of red & then a thin layer of buff on top (or you can do vice versa), all while cement was wet..this mix of layering the two colors gave the bricks each their own individual & more natural look. Also, keep in mind that your wet cement will become several shades lighter after it dries.
- Allow your cement to dry to a soft, dry, dough-like consistency.. something similar to a raw pie shell dough (If it’s too wet, too much of your cement will pull off w/ the tape. If it’s too dry, you’ll have a difficult time pulling the tape off). Gently & slowly pull up the tape, & gently brush away the little pieces of debris using a VERY soft bristle brush (invest in a well made soft bristle brush..cheap, rough, brushes will drop bristles in your work & may leave brush textures on your concrete).
- Let your handy work dry over night..then apply a couple of coats of sealer to your entire project..make sure your sealer is specially made for fresh concrete work..some sealers can’t be applied until 90 days after your concrete cures. After 90 days, you can also apply a 90+ day sealer.