Fixed Competitive Price Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B for Bandung Importers

Fixed Competitive Price Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B for Bandung Importers
  • Fixed Competitive Price Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B for Bandung ImportersFixed Competitive Price Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B for Bandung Importers

Short Description:

Description SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion.   Key Features 1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive 2. Fast cure at room temperature,...


Product Detail

Attentions

Application

Product Tags

Our development depends on the advanced equipment ,excellent talents and continuously strengthened technology forces for Fixed Competitive Price Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B for Bandung Importers, With superb service and quality, and an enterprise of foreign trade featuring validity and competitiveness, that will be trusted and welcomed by its clients and creates happiness to its employees.


Description

SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion.

 

Key Features

1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive

2. Fast cure at room temperature, <40 min for reaching a tack-free status under standard environment (STD: 23℃, 50% humidity)

3. Mix ratio of 1:1 by volume or by weight

4. Good mechanical property

5. Bonds a wide variety of building materials

6. Good waterproofing and chemical resistance

 

Basic Application

1, the external walls of stone material, ceramic and other hang bond;

2, concrete, ceramics, stone, wood and other prefabricated split, bonding and jointing;

3, concrete, stone and so on crack repair;

4, the structure of the localization, anchor, reinforcement and reinforcement.

 

Technical data sheet

The following data is for reference only and is not recommended for the specification

Shear strength Stainless steel-stainless steel/Standard conditions ≥18   JC887-2001
Pressure shear strength Stone-stone/ Standard conditions ≥12
Stone-stone/ The freeze-thaw cycle 50 times ≥10
Stone – stainless steel/ Standard conditions ≥12
Standard conditions:Temperature=23℃,relative humidity=50%,48 hours curing
attribute SV-602-A SV-602-B SV-602(After mixing)
Colour gray white grey
Density(g/cm³) 1.8 1.8 1.8
Viscosity(PaS) 200-400 150-250  
Effective operating time(23℃) N/A N/A 20min
           

 

Certification

JC 887-2001

 

Color

Part A-Grey Paste/Part B-White Paste

 

Package

9kg/9kg per unit and 15kg/15kg per unit

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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  • Tutorial on how to use a standard glue gun, covering all of the basics. Let me know if you have any questions, and check out the glue gun playlist for more information (more than you ever wanted to know).

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUhMfRYHP1df8VxEUZ9tA1xBMxv03QVzm

    twitter: @makerhighschool
    web: MakerHS.com
    Facebook: Facebook.com/Makerhighschool

    Intro Music:
    “Winner Winner!”
    Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
    Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0

    https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

    Transcript:
    Hi! Lori again from Maker High. Hello
    to all my fellow Makers.
    Today we’re going to talk about how to use a glue gun.
    So, the first thing you’re going to do is to protect your work surface.
    If you have a silicone mat, that is fantastic. Totally use that.
    But if not, you don’t have to invest in anything that fancy.
    If you have some newspaper or some
    parchment paper
    or some tinfoil, even a piece of
    cardboard … anything is fine
    so long as the nozzle from the glue gun isn’t resting on it
    You want it to catch drips
    you don’t want it to catch fire. FIRE BAD!
    If this is your first time using a brand new glue gun, you are going to want to
    insert a glue stick before you plug it in
    Now, some glue guns have a little
    switch here on the side that you gonna
    turn on and off.
    most of them don’t so if yours doesn’t have one
    do not panic and if the tip
    starts smoking
    a little bit that’s okay. It’s to be
    expected. They have put a little bit
    of a non-corrosive chemical on the tip.
    So, you know, if it continues to smoke
    after the first minute or two then you
    might have a problem, but other than that, you should be okay.
    Now, we’re gonna wait for the internal
    heating element to heat up
    For the small, mini glue guns, it’s
    going to be about 2 minutes
    and for the larger glue guns, it’s going to take about 5.
    GLUE GUN HEAT UP DOG INTERMISSION
    “What are you doing, Halford?”
    Don’t force the trigger on your
    glue gun.
    if you wanna check and see if it’s hot enough yet you can pull it very gently.
    If there is no give, wait another
    minute or two but if it seems like it’s
    good to go, then you should be ready.
    You’re going to hold your glue gun close to the item.
    You’re going to press the trigger to advance the glue
    through the glue gun and out through the nozzle.
    And then when you have enough glue, release the trigger and pull it away.
    IF GLUING ITEMS TOGETHER, PRESS TOGETHER GENTLY
    WAIT A FEW SECONDS
    …AND SUCCESS
    When your glue stick gets to be
    about here in a glue gun you’re just going to
    want to add another one in through the
    back
    and it’s going to finish feeding through
    the one that you have
    and pull the other one in. As always
    remember when you are done using a glue
    gun to turn off and unplug iteven if it’s just leaving the room.
    If you haven’t yet
    take a look at the top 10 things not to
    do with a glue gun.
    It’s basically a safety video. and you should watch it before you use a glue gun for the first time.
    and that’s basically it! You know, it takes a
    little bit of a learning curve, but it’s
    really not that hard to do
    its definitely an easy form
    of gluing things together. It’s pretty quick.
    It’s pretty sturdy.
    If you have any questions ask them
    in the comments below.
    If you haven’t yet, please subscribe,
    because that would be awesome.
    and this is Lori signing off for Maker High, and I’ll see you next time. Bye!
    BONUS OUTTAKES
    Glue gun constellation! Whooooooo
    If you have any questions ask them *ding sound” Woah, hello?



    If you cannot drain your aquarium to repair a leak from the inside, and you need to work from the outside, you have to beat hydraulic pressure.
    The way you can do it, is by patching from bottom (where your leak is) to top.
    1) Use a 2″ tape (scotch / masking / duct / whatever). See the patch in my other video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HRAjfYTesQ
    2) patch this tape with a coat or 2 of a plastic bag.
    3) put a stripe of silicone (any kind – since it’s external). Now your “bandaid” is ready.
    4) put this patch on your Leakage in a way that the dripping is chased up. You cannot completely seal since hydraulic pressure is stronger than silicone. But the silicone is strong enough to push the water flow 1″-2″ up. Just make sure you chase the leak Upwards – not downwards, and not side ways.
    5) every 20 minutes or so, you can take of your patch (the plastic bag helps here), and put a new patch, 2″ higher up (repeat steps 1-4) with a small overlap between the previous and the new silicone, so that you continue chasing upwards. If you miss (leak goes in another direction, repeat on this section, till you get it up).
    6) as you go upwards, at some point the hydraulic pressure will be low enough that your leakage stops completely. even if you are not lucky, once you reach the top water level, the water pressure is 0, and your leakage will be over.
    My leak was at the bottom front left side, and I had to work up slowly against 15″ of water (about 40cm on a 50cm deep aquarium).
    When I started this, I did’t know how it was going to turn out. In hindsight I would of course drain 1/3 of the water or 1/5 of the water – anything that is doable without taking out the fish (my initial constraint) or impacting the bio-equilibrium. Doing this would reduce pressure and essentially make it easier (it would take less stages of 2″ patching).
    As a conclusion, I can say that in any case drain your aquarium as much as you can – it will help.
    Then, if your leak is situated above the water level – work from the inside, using aquarium safe silicone, and if your leak is below that, use the method in this video.
    As this was my first external repair it doesn’t look nice, and possibly I could have tried with less silicone, or maybe I could have trimmed it afterwards. However right now I cannot afford the headace of causing a new leak just for the sake of aesthetics.

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