Factory Price SV-666 General Use Neutral Sealant for Czech republic Factory
Short Description:
Description SV-666 neutral silicone sealant is a neutral curing glue single component, the modulus of the. It is specially designed for windows and doors caulking sealing general plastic doors and windows. It has good adhesion to glass and aluminum alloy, and has no corrosion. Where to use It is fit for multiple purpose sealing and bonding applications to form a silicone rubber adhering to adjacent substrates e.g. glass, ceramic, tile, wood and metal. Key Features 1. 100% silicone 2. Eas...
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Description
SV-666 neutral silicone sealant is a neutral curing glue single component, the modulus of the. It is specially designed for windows and doors caulking sealing general plastic doors and windows. It has good adhesion to glass and aluminum alloy, and has no corrosion.
Where to use
It is fit for multiple purpose sealing and bonding applications to form a silicone rubber adhering to adjacent substrates e.g. glass, ceramic, tile, wood and metal.
Key Features
1. 100% silicone
2. Easy to use
3. Waterproofing and weatherproofing
4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials
5. 12.5% movement capability
Technical data sheet
| Test standard | Test project | Unit | value |
| Before curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| GB13477 | Flow, sagging or vertical flow | mm | 0 |
| GB13477 | surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.） | min | 30 |
|
GB13477 |
Operating time | min | 20 |
| Curing time（25℃，50%R.H.） | Day | 7-14 | |
| Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| GB13477 | Durometer Hardness | Shore A | 28 |
| GB13477 | The ultimate tensile strength | Mpa | 0.7 |
| Temperature stability | ℃ | -50~+150 | |
| GB13477 | Movement capability | % | 12.5 |
Certification
JC/T881-2001 12.5E；GB/T14683-2003 12.5E
Color
Black，White，Gray
Package
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
The coating Microsoft puts on the Mouse like the Wireless Intellimouse Explorer 2.0 seems to degrade and cause the black rubbery surface to become sticky. I’ve searched the internet and the only true solution to fixing this annoying problem is to sand the sticky residue from the black rubber coating. The mouse will look slightly scuffed on the black parts but at least it will never feel sticky again.
BTW: My mouse is only 1 year old before the problem started to happen.
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Check out our blog for more details about this DIY!
(https://www.heywandererblog.com/2017/06/diy-stock-tank-pool-everything-you-need.html)
Instagram- https://www.instagram.com/heywanderer
E-mail- heywanderer@gmail.com
Things you will need:
- Stock tank
- Above Ground Pool Pump (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QIYMNM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005QIYMNM&linkCode=as2&tag=heywanderer-20&linkId=eb02a0f70f7346365cb3605526c762a1)
- Weatherproof Silicone Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBJ7W/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0000CBJ7W&linkCode=as2&tag=heywanderer-20&linkId=fed3bf25655f953f9dffe6f5a7125b41)
- Hole Saw with Arbor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N41ECXI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00N41ECXI&linkCode=as2&tag=heywanderer-20&linkId=53e5f5258cb8b72c0e3d0de148b30929)
- Plunger Valves (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EIMRZGS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00EIMRZGS&linkCode=as2&tag=heywanderer-20&linkId=892e868c1267ff7ffd6407c597d557eb)”
- Pool Outlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S7QQ2M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B004S7QQ2M&linkCode=as2&tag=heywanderer-20&linkId=108da486037248ed5399ade919e504e9)
- 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets) (https://www.intexcorp.com/10255.html)
- Strainer Nut (https://www.intexcorp.com/10256.html)
Other things you will need for maintenance:
- Chlorine Tablets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZZFQKY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00PZZFQKY&linkCode=as2&tag=heywanderer-20&linkId=dd445281975e0f88f1840b8924aabc5c
- Floating Pool Dispensert (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P5A4R4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000P5A4R4&linkCode=as2&tag=heywanderer-20&linkId=8aa8479f61243a92ea124f1d9423f376
- Water Testing Kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038YL4M8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0038YL4M8&linkCode=as2&tag=heywanderer-20&linkId=b233a993b3d0993b7de815a339d3e7da
Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.
